1. RXX Disco Pub - If dancing to thunderous techno music is to your liking, this dark and damning basement is the place for you. Stays open till after dawn. 65 Gongyuan S. Rd. (公園南路65號); tel (06) 224-0027
2. The Cosby Saloon - A favorite of European businesspeople staying at the nearby hotels, the Cosby's pool table and consistently good food also draw crowds of locals and English teachers. Entrance on Lane 40 Chenggong Rd (入口處從成功路40巷); tel (06) 228-6332
3. Shin Kong Mitsukoshi (新光三越) - Essentially the same as its larger counterparts in north Taiwan. The food court is worth exploring for its Korean and Japanese dishes, crepes and ice creams. 162 Jungshan Rd. (中山路162號)
4. General Post Office (郵政總局)
5. Caves Books (敦煌書局) - A good source of English books and periodicals, plus a peaceful little coffee shop overlooking a busy street. 159 Beimen Rd., Sec 1 (北門路一段159號); tel (06) 229-6347
6. Far Eastern Department Store (遠東百貨) - Fashion hounds will check out the clothes; others might be more interested in the basement eateries. Inexpensive takeout sushi is one of the highlights. 2 Dashueh Rd. (大學路2號)
7. National Chengkung University (國立成功大學) - The main campus features a large park, outdoor sculptures, Japanese-era buildings between newer, taller edifices, plus the compulsory Chiang Kai-shek statue. 1 Dashueh Rd. (大學路1號); tel (06) 274-0715
8. Yule Street (育樂街) - A crush of noodle joints, cafeterias, tea and papaya milk stalls, pool halls, video game parlors, and printing shops catering to the needs of Chengkung University students. There's even a coin-operated laundromat.
9. Shengli Breakfast (勝利早點) - From late evening till after lunch, this unprepossessing little eatery cranks out savory snacks washed down with bowls of hot and cold soya bean milk. The Shandong tongyoubin oven-baked onion cakes are especially popular, with queues eagerly awaiting each batch, even in the small hours. 119 Shengli Rd. (勝利路119號); tel (06) 238-6043
10. Macanna Beer House (麥坎納啤酒屋) - Those tiring of three-cup chicken and other beerhouse staples will be glad that this Tainan institution recently added a slew of Korean dishes to its grub roster. Best suited to groups, who tend to order beer by the barrel. 117 Shengli Rd. (勝利路117號); tel (06) 234-5882
11. Five Loaves & Two Fish (五餅二魚) - Part of a chain serving meals, coffee and beer. The benches and tables are suspended by ropes from the ceiling, so customers cannot help but sway gently as they eat, drink and chat. 260 Yule St. (育樂街260號); tel (06) 209-3022
12. Fifties (年代) - Not especially fifties-like in decor, but a relaxing place for a cocktail. The prices will deter volume drinkers, but the waitresses know how to mix a decent martini. 148 Chingnien Rd. (青年路148號); tel (06) 229-5084
13. Hud La Voos (呼拉嗚嘶 PUB) - Fun Aboriginal-run restaurant/bar. 1 Lane 398, Chingnien Rd. (青年路398巷1號) (See review at left.)
14. Taipei-Neihu Delicate Traditional Chinese Snacks(台北內湖煎餃) - A spacious, brightly-lit and perpetually bustling joint serving excellent steamed and fried dumplings, savory doughnut sticks plus, oddly, mouthwatering chocolate cake. Open 24 hours. 408 Chingnien Road (青年路408號); tel (06) 200-5222
15. The Next Restaurant (勒那斯特餐廳) - Great pasta and Mexican dishes, big portions. 87 Chingdong St. (慶東街87號) (See review at left.)
16. Malaysia Xiao Guan (馬來小館) - Not a chopstick in sight. Cheap and tasty Malaysian curries eaten with cheap metal cutlery. A favorite with students from nearby National Chengkung University, and others bored with Taiwanese cooking. 27 Changrung Rd., Sec. 3 (長榮路三段27號); tel (06) 234-3155
17. Yellow Submarine (黃色潛水艇) - Hailed by many expatriates as Tainan's best sandwich shop. This hole-in-a-wall, 烞andwiched in a lane between McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken, offers a range of good, inexpensive subs. 2, Lane 22, Dahsueh Rd. (大學路22巷2號); tel (06) 209-1152
18. Dongmen Yuen (東門路) - This exquisitely preserved 100-year-old house boasts an art gallery indoors and a courtyard out back where teas, draft beer, set meals and mini-hot pots can be enjoyed in tranquil, tasteful surroundings. 95 Dongmen Rd, Sec 2 (東門路二段95號) (東門美術館); tel (06) 234-4987
19. Vonny's Garden Vegetarian Restaurant (綠素界花果茶餐飲坊) - Excellent soups and dumplings, efficient service. 95 Linsen Rd., Sec.2 (林森路二段95號) (See review at left.)
20. Ocean Area - The reasonably-priced Western dishes and sandwiches have acquired quite a following among Tainan's student population. Quiet and pleasant, and inexplicably far from the ocean. 1, Lane 267, Dongmen Rd. (東門路一段267巷1號); tel (06) 234-6259
(Note on addresses: Tainan uses a different romanization system to Taipei. The spellings above are the ones that appear on Tainan street signs.)
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