The flaming barbecue grills aren't alone in whipping up a thirst for a cold beer at Shiodome Garden, a rooftop beer restaurant surrounded by flashing neon billboards. Also whetting the appetite is Japan's rekindled economy.
"I love beer," declared Akihiro Seki, a 39-year-old insurance accountant, downing his fifth icy glass in the muggy open air. "We know the economy's getting better so we feel more confident spending a little extra."
Japanese beer shipments are on the rise for the first time in a decade, as the world's second-largest economy toasts a brisk recovery from years of doldrums. But the future of Japan's US$24.8 billion beer industry is anything but bubbly.
PHOTO: APNWARNING: EXCESSIVE CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOL CAN DAMAGE Y
Changing tastes, healthier life- styles and Japan's shrinking population are all problems for an industry that has already undergone painful restructuring during a recently ended decade of economic stagnation.
Struggling to maintain profits, Japan's big brewers -- Kirin, Asahi, Sapporo and Suntory -- are trying everything from diversifying into baby food to expanding into China and introducing soybean beer.
"Until now, the beer market has been shrinking because people wanted cheaper drinks," said Shuji Takimoto, spokesman for the Brewers Association of Japan. "But just judging by the changing population, the future of beer also looks tough."
The good news is that in the first half of this year, domestic shipments of beer rose 0.3 percent, the first increase in a decade, as rising wages and consumer optimism encouraged people to dine out. Shipments of all beer products, including low-malt beer and no-malt beer, climbed 1.1 percent to 230.66 million cases, its first increase in five years.
The Japanese didn't even brew their own beer until 1872. But by 2004, Japan was the world's sixth-biggest consumer, guzzling 6.55 million kiloliters a year. On a per-capita basis, the country is Asia's No. 1, with each Japanese quaffing an annual average of 51.3 liters -- or one 350 milliliter can every 2 and a half days.
But that grand drinking tradition is under attack from several directions.
Wine and spirits are slowing converting taste buds, while health concerns are turning increasing numbers of people off alcohol in general.
Meanwhile, Japan's declining population and rising numbers of elderly -- at 21 percent, the world's highest proportion aged 65 or over -- mean a future with fewer beer drinkers, no matter how devout.
To bolster sales during the economic slump when drinkers watched their wallets, Japanese beermakers introduced new products to dodge the so-called "taste tax" that accounts for nearly half the price of a can of regular Japanese beer.
The tax applies only to beers containing more than 67 percent malt. So Japanese brewers raced to roll out low-malt drinks, which substitute rice or corn syrup for malt, and even no-malt varieties made of soybeans.
At half the price of full-malt beers, they quickly won over penny-pinching drinkers. The only problem is profit margins on these variants are razor slim, and purists shun them.
"The difference in taste is obvious," says Yukiko Oshima, a beer analyst with Credit Suisse First Boston in Tokyo.
Kirin, which just wrested Japan's top-selling beer title from archrival Asahi, has branched into pharmaceuticals and seedlings for cut flowers to diversify revenue. Asahi, which gets 90 percent of its sales from alcohol, announced similar plans in April to buy baby formula maker Wakodo Co.
On the horizon is a potentially bigger savior in China, the world's top beer consumer and its fastest-growing market, expanding at around 10 percent in 2004. Japanese brewers are ramping up production there as fast as possible.
Leading the way was Suntory, which began brewing beer in China in 1984. In June, it bought Chinese operations from Australia's Foster's Group Ltd and now controls about 60 percent of the booming Shanghai beer market.
Asahi is setting up its fifth beer plant in China run via joint ventures. And Kirin plans to build a new brewery in Guangdong Province and buy out its local partner to make Zhuhai Kirin Brewery a wholly owned subsidiary -- a total investment of about ¥10 billion (US$8.5 million).
Profits are hard earned because of historically low prices, however, and Japanese brands still trail other foreign competitors, including Anheuser-Busch and SABMiller PLC. Belgium's InBev and Holland's Heineken are also in the mix.
Unlike their US and European-based rivals, Japanese beers face a unique barrier in a country that still harbors bitter memories of Japanese militarism during World War II. Especially if your name's Asahi -- or "rising sun" in Japanese.
Last year, Asahi beer was temporarily pulled from shelves in a Chinese boycott triggered by lingering anti-Japanese outrage.
NO-LIMITS PARTNERSHIP: ‘The bottom line’ is that if the US were to have a conflict with China or Russia it would likely open up a second front with the other, a US senator said Beijing and Moscow could cooperate in a conflict over Taiwan, the top US intelligence chief told the US Senate this week. “We see China and Russia, for the first time, exercising together in relation to Taiwan and recognizing that this is a place where China definitely wants Russia to be working with them, and we see no reason why they wouldn’t,” US Director of National Intelligence Avril Haines told a US Senate Committee on Armed Services hearing on Thursday. US Senator Mike Rounds asked Haines about such a potential scenario. He also asked US Defense Intelligence Agency Director Lieutenant General Jeffrey Kruse
INSPIRING: Taiwan has been a model in the Asia-Pacific region with its democratic transition, free and fair elections and open society, the vice president-elect said Taiwan can play a leadership role in the Asia-Pacific region, vice president-elect Hsiao Bi-khim (蕭美琴) told a forum in Taipei yesterday, highlighting the nation’s resilience in the face of geopolitical challenges. “Not only can Taiwan help, but Taiwan can lead ... not only can Taiwan play a leadership role, but Taiwan’s leadership is important to the world,” Hsiao told the annual forum hosted by the Center for Asia-Pacific Resilience and Innovation think tank. Hsiao thanked Taiwan’s international friends for their long-term support, citing the example of US President Joe Biden last month signing into law a bill to provide aid to Taiwan,
China’s intrusive and territorial claims in the Indo-Pacific region are “illegal, coercive, aggressive and deceptive,” new US Indo-Pacific Commander Admiral Samuel Paparo said on Friday, adding that he would continue working with allies and partners to keep the area free and open. Paparo made the remarks at a change-of-command ceremony at Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam in Hawaii, where he took over the command from Admiral John Aquilino. “Our world faces a complex problem set in the troubling actions of the People’s Republic of China [PRC] and its rapid buildup of forces. We must be ready to answer the PRC’s increasingly intrusive and
STATE OF THE NATION: The legislature should invite the president to deliver an address every year, the TPP said, adding that Lai should also have to answer legislators’ questions The Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) yesterday proposed inviting president-elect William Lai (賴清德) to make a historic first state of the nation address at the legislature following his inauguration on May 20. Lai is expected to face many domestic and international challenges, and should clarify his intended policies with the public’s representatives, KMT caucus secretary-general Hung Meng-kai (洪孟楷) said when making the proposal at a meeting of the legislature’s Procedure Committee. The committee voted to add the item to the agenda for Friday, along with another similar proposal put forward by the Taiwan People’s Party (TPP). The invitation is in line with Article 15-2