He kept his quick wit throughout jail terms, torture and solitary confinement, but it seems nothing quite prepared Myanmar’s most famous comedian for his first trip out of the military-dominated state.
“When I saw the airplane I got a shock, when I saw the airport I got a shock, when I saw the big building and big bridge and good road I got a shock,” he told a packed audience that turned out to hear him in Bangkok.
However, it is the faces of young people in neighboring Thailand — expressing “freedom” and “self-confidence” — that have really stunned the 50-year-old Zarganar.
“Our young people in my country, daily they worry ... Their faces are full of anxieties,” he told the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand late on Monday. “We are neighboring countries, but quite different.”
During his first short stint abroad, however, the bald and bespectacled dissident is not dwelling on anxiety.
Renowned for his humor in the face of repression and held in jail four times by Myanmar’s ruling generals, the poet, performer and filmmaker was released from his latest prison term in October and has since finally been granted a passport.
“Now I’m here, this is improvement,” said Zarganar, who yesterday headed to Cambodia before he returns home.
His release, part of a wider prisoner amnesty, was one of several promising moves made by the new nominally civilian government this year that surprised skeptical Myanmar observers after almost 50 years of outright army rule.
Although elections in November last year were widely criticized by the West, the new administration’s nascent reforms have been cautiously welcomed and spurred a landmark visit by US Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton in recent weeks.
“This is watch-and-see time, so we just open the window to watch the government, what they do, what they will do,” Zarganar said.
As the country tries to shake off its isolated status, he said lifting sanctions imposed by the West would lead to more aid from foreign countries “for our people, not for our military.”
For Zarganar and his fellow citizens of Myanmar, progress has been a long time coming.
Born Maung Thura, a year before the army grabbed power in 1962, he worked with several performance groups while studying at dental school and later adopted the name Zarganar, meaning “tweezers.”
He joined the 1988 student-led uprising against then-military dictator Ne Win and was arrested that year, tortured and sent to Yangon’s Insein Prison, where he was held for several months before being released in 1989.
Since then, he has been arrested three more times for his dissident activities, “so I’m very familiar with the prisons, I’m very used to the iron bars,” he said.
He talked about “a very rude and terrible time” during his earlier years of detention, which included five years in solitary confinement without windows, fresh air or even toilet paper — using leaves instead.
Conditions were less horrific during his latest jail term, stemming from his rush to help victims of the devastating Cyclone Nargis that tore through the Irrawaddy Delta in May 2008, leaving 138,000 people dead or missing.
As the regime drew global condemnation for refusing aid groups access for weeks, the comedian was among the first bands of local people to get provisions to some of the 2.4 million desperately struggling for survival.