Against a backdrop of militant bombs and bullets, wealthy young Pakistanis are turning to the beat of modern music to help bring social change to their troubled Muslim nation.
“I love how when you enter the place, you’re completely transformed,” DJ Faisal Big said at a recent all-night rave in a brick factory courtesy of London’s Ministry of Sound. “It doesn’t feel like Pakistan — definitely not the Pakistan you see on the media.”
The one-off Ministry of Sound event cost US$100, an expensive night out in the country — but the mini-revolution has spread far beyond the brick factory doors.
Organizers persuaded the -famous London nightclub, billed as the home of dance music and celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, to send over a DJ to lead a club for one night only.
The youth music scene in a deeply conservative Islamic state, dogged by deadly Taliban and al-Qaeda attacks, is opening up to new influences — offering anger-release and a space for political expression.
The cultural capital of Lahore is center-stage for young people looking to modern music for a break from stifling militancy and political crises.
Close to a preaching center for Muslim scholars and former Pakistani prime minister Nawaz Sharif’s estate, many spend Saturday nights dancing at farmhouses and makeshift clubs on Raiwind road leading to the countryside outside Lahore.
“This is Pakistan, my Pakistan, the changing Pakistan ... no more bombs, no more terrorism, our society is changing,” said Tahir Ali, dancing at the Ministry of Sound event on Raiwind road.
“You will see, one day the whole Pakistan will change, we will change our country, we will bring revolution over here and we will get rid of extremism,” said Zoobia, dancing with her cousin Umair as dawn broke.
Across town, there is a very different atmosphere, but one that is also a world apart from traditional Pakistani music.
In Model Town, the neighborhood where a 70-year-old US aid expert was kidnapped at gunpoint from his home last week, youngsters gather to bury their frustration in heavy metal.
However, this is not a popular revolution — these are the sons and daughters of some of the wealthiest families in Pakistan, taught at expensive English private schools, performing to each other in a school auditorium.
“Heavy metal is a way to express anger about what’s happening to the country,” said Zain, a guitarist in increasingly popular band Takatak, named after the sound of a knife chopping up goat genitalia.
The band’s six heavy-metal lovers believe that the drums and music not only ease frustration, but help others speak out.
“We have terrorism. We have bombs. We have drones. We have no education, suicide bombers. There’s the Taliban. There’s the government — we’re not going to play Beatles in a warzone, are we?” said the band members, interrupting each other before heading to the show.
Gig organizer Younas Chowdhry estimates that there are more than 100 underground bands in Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad, the three major cities.
Bands organize their own gatherings and perform privately, with the general public largely unaware of what is going on behind the curtains and in basements.
“They want society to open up, they want a revolution and change of the country’s image from a terrorland to a modern vibrant nation and they are sending this message across through music,” Chowdhry said.