Fri, Jan 04, 2019 - Page 13 News List

Highways and Byways: A Cold War relic in rural Tainan

Ruined buildings, gun emplacements, tunnels and an extraordinary ‘fake grave’ are among the things visitors will see at an old military installation in Sinhua District

By Steven Crook

The buildings that once formed part of the training area at Tainan’s Ganlan Mountain have lost their roofs and many of their walls.

Photo: Steven Crook

About a year ago, more than a decade after I moved to the area, I stumbled quite by accident across a short hiking trail 6km from my home. The Ganlan Mountain Path (橄欖山登山步道) is just inland of Hutoupi (虎頭埤) in Tainan City’s Sinhua District (新化). Hutoupi is a small reservoir, and notable for being one of very few significant infrastructure projects in Taiwan initiated by the Qing authorities before the Japanese took control of the island in 1895.

The trail doesn’t appear on Google Maps, which perhaps isn’t surprising. The “mountain” is only slightly higher than the surrounding countryside, and a fast walker can get from one end of the path to the other in less than 10 minutes. The toponym means “mountain of olives,” and there’s another Ganlan Mountain about 9km away in Zuojhen District (左鎮).

As well as lots of bamboo, Sinhua’s Ganlan Mountain does have some impressively tall Ceylon Olive (elaeocarpus serratus) trees. The fruit they produce is much larger than that from the European Olive. It’s also less palatable, which is why olives have never been a meaningful element in local diets. The principal attraction here isn’t fruit, however, but military history.

A Chinese-language mapboard at the entrance says the area was used to train soldiers after Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) regime relocated to Taiwan in 1949. It points out seven features of interest, among them ruined buildings; gun emplacements; a tunnel; and an extraordinary “fake grave” (假墓).

The mock tomb does resemble the old graves I often come across in Taiwan’s foothills. However, where you would normally see a tombstone bearing the deceased’s name, there’s an entrance through which an adult can just about squeeze. At a pinch, perhaps five men and their weapons could conceal themselves in the underground chamber — and there’s nothing to stop curious visitors from taking a look inside. It’s not obvious if those hiding within could seal the grave, or if they needed someone on the outside to slide the fake tombstone into position.

The mapboard doesn’t say for what the soldiers were training. To defend Taiwan in the event of a Communist invasion? Or to retake China, as KMT leader Chiang Kai-shek (蔣介石) had vowed to do? According to some sources, this training area was intended to prepare Republic of China (ROC) Army units for combat in Vietnam.


One blogger writing in Chinese reports: “Local people say Ganlan Mountain was a heavily-guarded military base from the 1950s onward, created by the army to simulate a communist village in Vietnam. There were mock temples, tombs and houses, all connected underground. There were trenches and tunnels, to teach soldiers the tactics of the Viet Cong.”

Another says that military personnel also learned how to live off the land by foraging for edible plants and fruits (including, presumably, the olives).

It’s no secret that Chiang hoped to contribute militarily to the anti-communist struggle in Indochina. KMT officials told Washington they wished to station part of the army in the thick of it so as to gain valuable combat experience. But because they suspected Chiang was planning to use Vietnam as a base from which he could attack the China, the Americans turned down his offer.

Even so, the ROC assisted South Vietnam until its collapse. In 1959, a South Vietnamese military delegation toured Taiwan to learn from their KMT counterparts. The following year, Ngo Dinh Diem — first president of the pro-US Republic of Vietnam — visited Taiwan and asked Taipei to help Saigon establish a political warfare bureau for its armed forces, similar to the system Chiang Ching-kuo (蔣經國) had instituted within the ROC military.

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