Fri, Dec 29, 2017 - Page 13 News List

Off the Beaten Track: Hakka Country: Beipu

With its interesting history and great edibles, Beipu is among the top places to learn a bit about Taiwan’s Hakka people

By Richard Saunders  /  Contributing Reporter

Wooded Xiuluan Park, near the town, is a good place to escape the weekend tourists.

Photo: Richard Saunders

Between 15 and 20 percent of Taiwan’s Han Chinese population are of Hakka descent. The Hakka (客家; “guests”) came to Taiwan from parts of southern and eastern China, and their ancestors are thought to have migrated down from further north many centuries ago to escape persecution there.

Apart from having their own language, the Hakka also have their own distinct cultural traditions, of which the most immediately apparent is the delicious food. Most Hakka settled in today’s Taoyuan City and Hsinchu and Miaoli counties, plus smaller groups in Hualien and Taitung counties, and Kaohsiung City.

Although Hakka were among the first Han immigrants to arrive in Taiwan, discriminatory immigration policies during the early part of the Qing dynasty meant that when they were finally allowed to settle on Taiwan, most of the best agricultural land (in the warmer, sunnier south) had already been claimed by the Hoklo (Han Chinese from Fujian province), who often regarded the new arrivals with distrust. They therefore settled the barren land of the central mountain foothills, where they in turn displaced the Aboriginal natives.

Today the towns of Hakka country are well worth exploring. Best-known (and therefore the most touristy) are Beipu (北埔), in southern Hsinchu County, and Nanjhuang (南庄) in the north of neighboring Miaoli. Both deserve a leisurely visit, despite the inevitable weekend crowds that flock to them nowadays. However, if quaint old buildings are your thing, Nanjhuang or Hsinpu (新埔) are a better bet. The few old buildings left in Beipu are less interesting than its food and culture. With 98 percent of its inhabitants identifying themselves as Hakka, Beipu is perhaps the best place to learn a bit about Hakka culture. The town was founded by one Chiang Hsiu-luan (姜秀鑾), who took up the challenge laid down by a local magistrate in 1834 to open up the area southeast of Teckcham (today’s Hsinchu city), where Saisiyat Aborigines were clashing with the Chinese settlers.


>> Beipu is easily reached by taking the Lion’s Head Mountain route of the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus from Zhubei TRA station (one hour). The same bus can also be caught from the bus stop outside Hsinchu HSR station, from where it’s 45 minutes to Beipu.

>> Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus website:

Chiang and his cronies succeeded in driving the Aborigines deeper into the mountains and made his home in what became the town of Beipu. In the early years of the Japanese era, Beipu flourished thanks to the nearby coal mines as miners patronized establishments around the town. At about the same time, in 1907, the town was the scene of the Beipu Uprising, the first armed revolt against the Japanese colonial government. In November that year, a group of Hakka and Aboriginal insurgents, angry with perceived oppression at the hands of their overlords, attacked and killed nearly 60 local Japanese officials and their family members. Over the following days, the Japanese retaliated, killing over a hundred Hakka. Beipu’s coal mines closed many decades ago, but today the town is flourishing once more, thanks to its popularity among local tourists. It can get busy on weekends, but since most visitors rarely stray far from the town center eateries, it’s never hard to find a little peace.

Buses from Hsinchu drop passengers off at the edge of the compact old part of town, just a minute’s walk from Beipu’s best remaining old houses, in Miaocian Street (廟前街). The town car park is a block north. Nansing Street (南興街), beside the bus station, is lined with eateries selling Hakka food and souvenir shops. Look out during your walk around town for delicious dried persimmons (柿餅); you might also see slices of turnip or the leaves of meigan cai (梅干菜) drying in the sun. Both are staple ingredients of Hakka cuisine.

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