With the sudden arrival of cooler temperatures, Taichung residents will be heading in droves to their city’s version of Beitou and Yangmingshan hot springs — Guguan (谷關).
Although probably enjoyed for centuries by local Atayal Aborigines, it was the Japanese who first developed the hot spring sources and founded the resort area we see today. Taipei residents used to the luxurious high standards of the capital’s hot spring resorts might find Guguan’s offerings a bit retro, but that’s part of their charm — affordable and with a spectacular location unmatched among any up north.
Guguan’s hot springs lie beside the Dajia River (大甲溪), which cuts a magnificent gorge through the western foothills of the Snow Mountain Range. There’s only one way to reach the resort — along the Central Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway No. 8). Once one of Taiwan’s best road trips, the highway connected Taichung with Hualien on the east coast, climbing over the Snow and Central Mountain Ranges. Today part of the western half remains closed, following catastrophic damage during the 921 Earthquake.
Photo: Richard Saunders
For hikers across the nation, the area is famed for the Seven Heroes of Guguan (谷關七雄), a series of nearby peaks ranging in height from 1.3km to over 2.3km. They’ve become popular (though strenuous) day hikes, all starting in or near Guguan. Curiously, the seven peaks have both Japanese and Chinese names (Guguan was one of three main logging areas during the Japanese era). All seven have well-maintained, easy-to-follow trails, but unless you’re a strong hiker, pick a few longer hikes around Yangmingshan’s peaks before attempting any of them.
Serious hikers will want to complete all seven peaks, which would take at least a month of weekends and a considerable supply of energy. Less ambitious hikers should start with the two distinctive and less strenuous peaks described below, and move onto climbing the tougher ones later.
Dongmao Mountain (東卯山; 1,690m) is the shapeliest of the seven peaks, with a striking pyramidal profile. Surprisingly, it’s by a good whack the easiest to climb, courtesy of the long, zigzagging trail which reaches up to the peak. With 900m of vertical ascent from trailhead to summit, it’s no walk in the park, but it’s probably the best choice for a first Hero.
Photo: Richard Saunders
The trailhead is at Guguan Monastery (谷關大道院), nine kilometers west of Guguan village, which offers tourists simple but comfortable dormitory accommodation (free, but leave a donation). It’s a popular base to stay among weekend hikers bagging a couple of the Heroes, so if you want to stay, book ahead.
The route to the summit first follows a surfaced track that winds uphill past the huge monastery complex. It soon becomes a dirt trail, lying along the base of a cliff for a while before zigzagging gently uphill through the forest. Only the last few hundred meters of the trail is steep, with an easy rock face to scale (with the help of a rope), then a short scramble up a scree of loose rocks to reach the peak. The reward from the boulder-strewn summit is a magnificent 270-degree panorama over greater Taichung City — easily the finest view of the Seven Heroes.
Adventure lovers might prefer to approach the top via a more exciting route that branches left (marked by plastic ribbons tied to trees), and climbs along the rocky knife-edge spine of the ridge to the peak.
Photo: Richard Saunders
Allow five to six hours for the return hike.
Directly opposite Dongmao Mountain looms Baimao Mountain (白毛山; 1,522m), a more arduous but equally fine hike with expansive views from the peak. The trailhead is Maanba Dam (馬鞍霸), right beside Provincial Highway No. 8, a kilometer or so west of Guguan Monastery. Public vehicles can’t use the narrow road that crosses the dam, but it’s doable by scooter, which cuts off the first few kilometers of the hike. Turn right at the end of the dam and follow the road on the far side downstream beside the Dajia River (大甲溪), keeping to the dusty road on the left, uphill, to the trailhead at the end of the road.
It’s a long and steep climb, much of it through forest and just before the peak there’s a riveting short stretch along a short knife-edge ridge, giving incredible views in both directions in clear weather.
Photo: Richard Saunders
Allow six to seven hours for the 14km-long round trip.
In late October of 1873 the government of Japan decided against sending a military expedition to Korea to force that nation to open trade relations. Across the government supporters of the expedition resigned immediately. The spectacle of revolt by disaffected samurai began to loom over Japanese politics. In January of 1874 disaffected samurai attacked a senior minister in Tokyo. A month later, a group of pro-Korea expedition and anti-foreign elements from Saga prefecture in Kyushu revolted, driven in part by high food prices stemming from poor harvests. Their leader, according to Edward Drea’s classic Japan’s Imperial Army, was a samurai
The following three paragraphs are just some of what the local Chinese-language press is reporting on breathlessly and following every twist and turn with the eagerness of a soap opera fan. For many English-language readers, it probably comes across as incomprehensibly opaque, so bear with me briefly dear reader: To the surprise of many, former pop singer and Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) ex-lawmaker Yu Tien (余天) of the Taiwan Normal Country Promotion Association (TNCPA) at the last minute dropped out of the running for committee chair of the DPP’s New Taipei City chapter, paving the way for DPP legislator Su
It’s hard to know where to begin with Mark Tovell’s Taiwan: Roads Above the Clouds. Having published a travelogue myself, as well as having contributed to several guidebooks, at first glance Tovell’s book appears to inhabit a middle ground — the kind of hard-to-sell nowheresville publishers detest. Leaf through the pages and you’ll find them suffuse with the purple prose best associated with travel literature: “When the sun is low on a warm, clear morning, and with the heat already rising, we stand at the riverside bike path leading south from Sanxia’s old cobble streets.” Hardly the stuff of your
April 22 to April 28 The true identity of the mastermind behind the Demon Gang (魔鬼黨) was undoubtedly on the minds of countless schoolchildren in late 1958. In the days leading up to the big reveal, more than 10,000 guesses were sent to Ta Hwa Publishing Co (大華文化社) for a chance to win prizes. The smash success of the comic series Great Battle Against the Demon Gang (大戰魔鬼黨) came as a surprise to author Yeh Hung-chia (葉宏甲), who had long given up on his dream after being jailed for 10 months in 1947 over political cartoons. Protagonist