Sat, Jul 22, 2017 page13

• Ian’s Table: Size matters

  Summer squash are an amazingly delicate food that is perfect for the hot months, but it is important to catch them at the right time, neither too small or too big

  • By Ian Bartholomew / Contributing reporter
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  There are those who differentiate zucchini from yellow squash and those who don’t, but both are members of the summer squash family. Both are relatively new to Taiwan. Though grown locally, this is mostly for the restaurant trade, and zucchini and yellow squash command a relatively high price in the market. Despite this, they are pretty to look at, amazingly versatile in the kitchen and are perfect for summer dishes ranging from fresh crisp salads to luscious vegetable stews.

  Summer squash comes in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. Zucchini is green and straight. Yellow squash is bright yellow, bulging very slightly at one end. Both these varieties are available in Taiwan. Crookneck, with is distinctively curved neck and bulbous base, and scalloped squash, also called pattypan squash, with its scalloped fringe, are rare, but the difference is more in shape and presentation than in flavor.

  Zucchini is not much used in Taiwanese food but local farmers were not about to ignore a potential market and over the last decade zucchini has gradually made its way into the culinary sphere, though not without a few hiccups along the way.

  

  Fish wrapped up in zucchini slices and fried until golden makes for a delicious summer meal.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  Some years ago I picked up a windfall of zucchini at a traditional market in New Taipei City’s Sindian District (新店) from a stallholder who clearly had little idea what it was that she was selling. The presence of zucchini at the traditional market was probably due to some mix up, and she was pleased to get rid of this case of weird fruit for a pittance. Sad to say, having obtained nearly 10kg kilos of green and yellow zucchini, I had no idea how to preserve them beyond a week or so, as pickling was a skill I did not acquire until some time later. (Zucchini lend themselves very well to pickling, the results particularly stellar when added to meaty burgers.)

  After moving to Hualien, we found that local farmers were experimenting with zucchini. We ordered some, and were proudly presented with massive zucchini, almost as long and as thick as my forearm. I was impressed. These were bigger than anything I had ever seen. But my amazement at the skill of Taiwan’s farmers dissipated when I discovered these massive marrows had hard seeds, fibrous flesh and virtually no flavor.

  Subsequent research revealed that zucchini must be harvested young (though not too young), so that the seeds are immature and soft, and the flesh firm and crisp. As a general rule, zucchini should be about 20cm long and no more than 3cm in diameter (A fully developed zucchini can reach a meter in length, but by this time it is entirely unsuitable for the dinner table). At this point in their development they can be eaten raw or very lightly cooked, and reveal a crisp sweetness that is perfect for simple dishes such as vegetable pasta or salads.

  

  The bright, vibrant colors of zucchini make everything look even more delicious.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  The production of zucchini noodles, in which the fruit is spiraled into long strands that pretend to be a veg version of spaghetti, seems designed entirely as a way of selling kitchen gadgets, and while the stuffing of the zucchini flower with soft savory cheese mix can look very pretty, I have never found that it does much to satisfy the taste buds.

  Older fruit can be used in stews, and zucchini can reveal unexpected depth of flavor with long cooking, and there is a reason that it is a essential component of the classic French recipe ratatouille, and can often be found in rich southern European casseroles such moussaka.

  Zucchini on its own has a subtle flavor that is not particularly remarkable, but is an outstanding vehicle for other flavors and a good team player. Getting a bit of color on it, either by roasting or grilling, is a great way of bringing out the fruit’s natural sweetness. It combines particularly well with salty hard cheeses such as Pecorino or Parmigiana.

  The light crisp flavor of the zucchini is reflected in its nutritional profile and it is no surprise that it is a huge favorite with those hoping to lose weight. It is certainly superior to a host of processed weight loss products. Well cooked, it provides a wonderful feeling of fullness without too many calories. It has copious quantities of vitamins and minerals, with the added bonus of helping to guard against asthma, as well as strengthening bones and teeth. There are also suggestions that it is good for the eyes.

  Fish wrapped in zucchini

  Recipe (serves two):

  This dish is light and fresh, perfect for warm summer evenings. It is easy to put together and looks as lovely as it tastes. The flavors are delicate and herbal, and it pairs perfectly with a crisp, citrus Sauvignon Blanc.

  Ingredients

  300g skinless, fine fleshed white fish fillets (such as sea bass)

  1 green zucchini or yellow squash

  small bunch of sweet basil

  2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

  1 tbsp finely minced preserved lemon

  4 cherry tomatoes, halved

  salt and pepper to season

  olive oil

  Directions

  1. Use a vegetable peeler to shave thin slices along the length of the zucchini.

  2. Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Cut to size and make into two small stacks.

  3. On a clean cutting board, lay out the zucchini slices, each slice overlapping the previous one by half, to form two sheets. Place the fish stack in the center of each.

  4. Distribute the basil leaves, garlic, tomato and preserved lemon around the fish. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

  5. Wrap the fish in the sheet of zucchini slices.

  6. Heat a non-stick skillet with a generous glug of olive oil over low heat. Place the fish packages in the skillet and cook for 5 minutes. Carefully turn the packages over and fry for another 5 minutes. The surface of the zucchini should be dappled with golden brown.

  7. Serve immediately.

  Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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