Singapore was once famous for three things: The banning of chewing gum, mandatory flushing of public toilets and the caning of American youth Michael Fay for car vandalism in 1994.
It has since shed some of its inhibitions as Asia’s city of “thou shalt nots” diversifies away from an economy heavy on manufacturing and banking.
While Monaco or Barcelona it is not, tropical Singapore is now known as a top-class casino-gambling destination, the venue for the world’s first Formula One night race and the bachelor playground of Facebook co-founder Eduardo Saverin.
Photo: EPA
Clean and safe, the prosperous city-state is also a magnet for high-end shoppers and one of the most diverse food capitals in the world.
Singapore, whose name means Lion City in Sanskrit, was colonized by the British in the early 19th century. Before that, it was inhabited by no more than 1,000 people.
The preceding centuries are shrouded in myth and legend, with Chinese travelers and Javanese chroniclers alluding to a lair for pirates and the sighting of a majestic lion.
Photo: Reuters
The last 100 years marked an era of deep change as the British empire unraveled, post-colonial Singapore was expelled from the Malaysia federation and the tiny island suddenly became a self-governing state with a tenuous future.
The little red dot, as Singapore is fondly known among locals, has since overcome its smallness and lack of resources to become an economic powerhouse — an evolution that critics say has led to soul-sapping materialism, political apathy and intellectual homogeneity.
HISTORY, CULTURE & NATURE
History buffs and travelers with relatives who were part of the Allied forces are often drawn to the World War Two sites around the island.
A good place to start is the tranquil Changi Museum, which documents the lives of prisoners of war during the Japanese occupation. Then make your way south to Fort Siloso on Sentosa island, before taking a short train ride to the stark but stately Kranji War Memorial.
The Asian Civilizations Museum at 1 Empress Place showcases culture and history from around the region. Current exhibits include relics from China’s Tang dynasty and Batak sculpture from Sumatra. (www.acm.org.sg)
People intrigued by the colorful, energetic culture of Chinese traders who settled in Malacca, Penang and Singapore centuries ago will have a rewarding time at the intimate Peranakan Museum at 39 Armenian Street. (www.peranakanmuseum.org.sg)
For tourists game for a spectacle, join the male devotees celebrating the fire-walking festival at the Sri Mariamman Temple each October. The Hindu temple, Singapore’s oldest, is in the most unlikely of places — Chinatown.
Visit the Sultan Mosque in the Kampong Glam enclave near the city center to bask in the glory of the Malay aristocracy of old. Then retire to nearby Arab Street for a drink at Blu Jaz as you marvel at the boho patrons and their shisha pipes.
Outdoorsy types can explore the 200-acre Bukit Brown cemetery off Lornie Road in central Singapore. Named after a 19th century English trader, the final resting place for thousands of pioneering Chinese immigrants has sparked a rare national debate on conservation versus development.
Other scenic spots include the 155-year-old Botanic Gardens, the jungle trails at MacRitchie Reservoir (mind the long-tailed macaques!) and East Coast Park’s 15km of seaside biking and walking paths. (www.nparks.gov.sg)
See a play or live music at Esplanade-Theatres on the Bay, which has a year-round calendar of cultural events, including hands-on workshops for kids. Dozens of restaurants and food stalls line the complex. (www.esplanade.com)
Listings of shows, concerts and other events can be found at www.timeoutsingapore.com, www.is.asia-city.com and the Tourism Board’s Web site www.yoursingapore.com.
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD
Singapore prides itself on being a food haven, and for good reason.
A morning excursion to Tiong Bahru market, in the heart of Singapore’s oldest public housing estate, is a must-do. Admire the area’s art deco charm as you sink your teeth into crispy, thin toast covered with kaya — a jam made from coconut milk, eggs and pandan leaf — and sip coffee in quaint porcelain cups.
For lunch, savor a plate of chicken rice, one of Singapore’s iconic offerings, at Boon Tong Kee at 425 River Valley Road.
Or try some laksa — a coconut-based curry with rice noodles, shrimp and fish cake. Foodies quarrel endlessly over that perfect bowl of laksa but a good version can be had at 328 Katong Laksa at 51 East Coast Road in the Tanjong Katong area.
Dinner would be a toss-up between chili crab, the third iconic dish, and Peranakan cuisine, a happy outcome of Chinese, Malay and Indian influences.
A favorite chili crab destination is Red House Seafood at the East Coast Seafood Centre. It’s best enjoyed with beer and boisterous company. On a different night, sample Peranakan duck soup, honey pork and spicy beef at Ivin’s at 19 Binjai Park.
Brunch and tea? You can have your eggs Benedict or Florentine, plus quiche, burgers and towering portions of cake at PS Cafe at 28B Harding Road. Popular on weekends, the cafe boasts a lovely outdoor sitting area with a leafy backdrop.
Those craving dim sum will find fulfillment at Lei Garden Restaurant at Chijmes — a collection of eateries, bars and boutiques in a historic former convent at 30 Victoria Street.
Challenge your palate with frog legs a la Kung Pao chicken at Lion City Frog Porridge at 235 Geylang Road (Lorong 9). If you are keen to try the king of fruits, the pungent and fleshy durian can be savored at many street stalls in Geylang.
Beyond Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisine, Singapore offers everything from boeuf bourguignon to Vietnamese spring rolls.
Within walking distance of Esplanade is Morton’s The Steakhouse on the fourth story of the Mandarin Oriental, a fail-safe but pricey option. A good alternative is L’Entrecote at 36 Duxton Hill in the historic district of Tanjong Pagar.
At Marina Bay Sands, Pizzeria Mozza offers an extensive menu and a team of star chefs.
For hearty French fare, there’s Le Bistrot du Sommelier at 53 Armenian Street near the Peranakan Museum. Diners with deeper wallets will take to Joel Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa.
For Italian fare, Basilico at The Regent has a terrific lunch buffet, OTTO Ristorante at 28 Maxwell Road is a chic venue and nearby Capricci at 27 Tanjong Pagar Road has a more casual vibe.
For authentic ramen, try Keisuke Tokyo at Parco Millenia. Sushi lovers flock to Shinji by Kanesaka at Raffles Hotel. A less expensive but equally elegant venue is Aoki at Shaw Centre in the Orchard Road shopping district.
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