Phrases like “sterile,” “boring” and “chewing gum outlawed” might
pop into some people’s heads
when they think of Singapore. But the city-state boasts a lively
design scene, “heritage streets”
and museums that celebrate its
multiethnic background and proudly bills itself as a shopper’s paradise, with new mega-malls popping up along Orchard Road (there are also plenty of indie boutiques for those who thumb their nose at mainstream fashion). Here are a few places to get a taste of modern life in Singapore — as well as its storied past.
SINGAPORE ON DISPLAY
The National Museum of Singapore’s (93 Stamford Road, tel: 65-6332-3659, www.nationalmuseum.sg) stunning 2,800m2 Singapore History Gallery takes the term “multimedia exhibit” to soaring new heights. A mixture of text, audio, images, film, installations and genuine artifacts tell the story of Singapore from the 14th century to the present day. Visitors can choose to take either the events path or the personal path; each presents the country’s history from different perspectives and occasionally intersect in exhibits like the one that explores the Japanese occupation of Singapore during World War II through the eyes of local teenagers.
The rest of the museum, which was founded in 1887, is also thoughtfully curated. The Singapore Living Galleries look at the social history of the country through informative (and entertaining) exhibitions on food, photography, fashion and film and wayang (the Indonesian word for “theater”). One of the spaces, a massive gallery with three separate screens, shows classic Singaporean movies throughout the day. The photography area, which displays hundreds of family photos from the past century, is more intimate.
»Singapore is serviced by mass rapid transit (MRT) with four lines that stop at almost all major tourist destinations (including Changi Airport). A Singapore Tourist Pass can be purchased for S$18 (including of a S$10 refundable card deposit and a one-day pass). For more information about the MRT and public buses, check out www.smrt.com.sg
»TAXIS
There are eight taxi companies servicing Singapore and most will send a car within 4 to 6 minutes after you call. We saw cabs from Comfort Taxi (65-6552-1111, www.cdgtaxi.com.sg/) the most frequently. Fleets charge a pick-up fee (around S$2 to S$3). Fares are reasonable, but passengers are responsible for electronic road pricing (ERP) tolls in the Central Business District and other heavily trafficked areas during peak hours, which can add up quickly. Taxi drivers are also not allowed to drop off or pick up passengers along the Central Business District’s main roads. For more information, visit www.taxisingapore.com
Make sure to save some time to take in the design of the museum itself. A three-year restoration project completed in 2006 added
a sleek and modern extension that preserves,
and complements, the building’s original
19th-century facade.
Design connoisseurs will get a kick out of the Red Dot Design Museum (28 Maxwell Rd, tel: 65-6327-4338, www.red-dot.sg), which is housed in the bright-red Red Dot Traffic Building. The museum showcases products and designs that have won the prestigious Red Dot Award. The centerpiece is a display of Tupperware products, which features a soaring canopy made from a rainbow of the American company’s food storage containers. On the first weekend of every month, the museum hosts MAAD, or the Market of Artists and Designers (www.maad.sg), to showcase (and sell) work by local talent.
The Red Dot Traffic Building is named
after its former occupants, Singapore’s traffic police. It is now home to three drinking
establishments, including Boulevard (tel: 65-6327-4338, www.boulevard.com.sg), a wine bar that also serves Mediterranean-style food.
Ann Siang Hill, a haven for indie boutique shoppers, is located within walking distance of the Red Dot Traffic Building, as are two hawker centers (the Singapore version of night markets). The Maxwell Food Center, one of the oldest in Singapore, is at the corner of South Bridge and Maxwell Roads, while the Amoy Food Center is at 7 Maxwell Road.
THE BIG DURIAN
For performances (including many free shows) and stunning views, head over to the Esplanade (1 Esplanade Drive, tel: 65-6828-8377, www.esplanade.com) on Marina Bay. The expansive performing arts center’s distinct domed silhouette, designed by Singapore’s DP Architects, has earned it the nickname of “the big durian” among locals. The Esplanade has several performance spaces, ranging from intimate club-like venues to the Concert Hall, which seats more than 1,800 and features state-of-the-art acoustics. If you are traveling on a budget, consider taking in a free performance at the Outdoor Theater, which offers a panoramic view of Marina Bay behind the stage. The Esplanade recently hosted the Mosaic Music Festival; my traveling companion and I took in performances by Taiwan’s Kou Chou Ching
RSS