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RESTAURANTS : La Marche

La Marche Address: 9, Ln 199, Xinyi Rd Sec 4, Taipei City (台北市信義路四段199巷9號) Telephone: (02) 2755-1055 Open: 11:30am to 10pm; closed Mondays Average meal: NT$350 for lunch; NT$600 for dinner Details: Chinese and English menu; credit cards accepted On the Net: www.lamarche.com.tw

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Basil, mint, rosemary and thyme were some of the herbs I noticed growing in pots on a wooden deck out front of the recently opened La Marche on a sunny afternoon last week. Any prospective diner would be forgiven for assuming that the restaurant uses these fresh ingredients in its food.

Entering the French and Italian-style affair was a somewhat overwhelming experience. The front section was stocked with teas, dry pastas, oils, vinegars, mustards, jams and biscuits — all imported and for sale. A large display case farther in contained cold meats, cheeses, desserts and the odd imported beer.

In the middle of this mini supermarket were four tables that stretched back to a bar midway through the restaurant. Beside the dark wooden bar is an entranceway that leads into a large, bright dining room. I took my seat at the front with views of the small herb garden.

As it was afternoon, dinner was out of the question (served from 5:30pm). That was just as well because the handsomely designed menu revealed that La Marche serves pastrami sandwiches (NT$200) — a personal favorite. I went with the set menu (add NT$120), which included soup, salad and coffee (tea and juice are also available).

Moments later a waiter sidled up with a huge hunk of meat: they were out of pastrami. Would corned beef suffice? After considering the menu’s sandwich selection, which included chorizo, Spanish prosciutto, Italian salami and smoked turkey breast, (NT$180 each), I acquiesced to the corned beef.

The hearty tomato and vegetable soup was somewhat of a disappointment. Looking at the herbs out front, it’s a wonder how none made it into the soup with the onions, carrots and stewed tomatoes. The home-baked bread served with the soup, however, contained small bits of roasted red pepper and black olives — a nice zesty touch. The salad was of the iceberg lettuce variety — a letdown compounded by an oil and balsamic vinegar dressing that was herb-free.

Though the sandwich came well presented on lightly toasted ciabatta and contained an ample portion of corned beef and a slice of cheddar, the unimaginative mayonnaise topping condemned it to banality. Where was the mustard or horseradish, or sauerkraut that is usually found in Rueben sandwiches? Still, the fries were large, crispy and yummy and the side salad of olives and cherry tomatoes was a nice touch.

The tiramisu (NT$160) isn’t available on the set menu, and when it arrived at the table the reason why became readily apparent. The slice, or more accurately slab, was larger than the corned beef sandwich and far more creatively put together. The fingers of sponge cake (infused with orange liqueur, Kahlua and hazelnut schnapps) wobbled on layers of whipped mascarpone and cream. It was a rich dessert that will keep me coming back — unlike the corned beef sandwich.

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