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[RESTAURANT REVIEW] London Tea House (英國茶館)

It’s twee time at London Tea House. PHOTO: CATHERINE SHU, TAIPEI TIMES

London Tea House offers an oasis of Anglophile tweeness among Taipei 101's designer boutiques and high-end restaurants. Located in the middle of the shopping center's fourth-floor City Square, the cafe, with its lovingly lit display of Spode tea sets and liberal use of flowery script, is charmingly quaint (or cloyingly precious, if your decorating tastes are more Philippe Starck than Laura Ashley).

Afternoon tea is served from 2pm to 5pm. The English Afternoon Tea service (NT$340) serves one person and comes with a dainty hazelnut-flavored cream tart, a finger sandwich and a scone, as well as a choice of beverage. Larger parties can order a Queen Anne Afternoon Tea (NT$680) or Victorian Tea Party (NT$1,360), which are versions of the English Afternoon Tea for two or four people, respectively.

The cafe's wide range of teas and coffee fills an expansive menu that looks like a children's picture book with Tiffany blue covers and watercolor illustrations. Presentation is clearly key - tea leaves are stored in indigo blue porcelain caddies that line sliding ebony shelves, and the cafe's herbal teas (NT$240 per pot) have been christened with names like "Spring of Youth," "My Fair Lady" and "Story of Lyric Rose." The whole thing is enough to make even the most recalcitrant tomboy or jet-lagged tourist sit up straight in their leather seats with pinkies raised.

London Tea House (英國茶館) Address: Taipei 101 Store (台北101分店), 4F, 45, Shifu Rd, Taipei City (台北市市府路45號4樓) Telephone: (02) 8101-8108 Open: 11am to 10pm Average meal: NT$340 Details: Chinese and English menu On the Net: www.londonteahouse.com.tw

For the ultimate London Tea House experience, skip the iced teas and coffee and order a pot of hot tea. The china teapot (with matching tea cup and saucer) is presented snugly wrapped in a Liberty-print tea cozy and comes with a little hourglass so you can count down the minutes for optimal steeping.

The food, however, might prove somewhat anti-climatic to afternoon tea connoisseurs. The scone (NT$180) is generously described as bite-sized and the texture of the cream it comes with is more whipped than clotted. The finger sandwich (NT$240) is baked ham-and-cheese, and heavier and greasier than the usual cucumber or watercress sandwiches.

Sugarphobes might have better luck with the Elevenses Tea (NT$320), which is served from 11am to 6pm and comes with a choice of vegetable, tomato with herb, or smoked salmon sandwiches. The latter is especially good - thin slices of flavorful fish, crispy lettuce, sliced tomato and Dijon mustard nestled between layers of fresh white bread (crustless, of course). Likewise, those averse to savories can order the Hampton Garden Afternoon Tea (NT$320), which comes with a choice of cake. All items in the tea services are available a la carte.

You should try to come earlier in the afternoon if you want to order anything besides a pot of fresh brewed tea - a Darjeeling iced tea (NT$180) this reviewer had on a separate visit after regular tea service had ended was so oversteeped it would have probably made a satisfactory leather tanner.

Judged on its own merits and presentation, however, London Tea House's afternoon tea service is more than satisfactory if you are a tea lover, have a latent fetish for cabbage-rose motifs or simply want to take a break from shopping and people watch while enjoying a nice cuppa.
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