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[RESTAURANT REVIEW] Witch Cloud (巫雲)

Witch Cloud's Yunnan cuisine is famed for its appetizing blend of spicy and sour flavors. The owner's massive vinyl collection is a bonus. PHOTO: HO YI, TAIPEI TIMES

A few months ago, Witch Cloud (巫雲), a cultural fixture frequented by artists, writers, vagabonds and wannabe rebels in the Shida (師大) neighborhood, quietly moved to a brighter and more comfortable location in the Taida (台大) area. The Yunnan cuisine, the collection of vinyl records and the long-haired, bearded proprietor nicknamed Lao Wu (老五) - who grew up in Myanmar but has called Taipei home for the past 30 years - remain the same.

An old apartment with a small front yard, the new location seems to be a hangout for the idiosyncratic owner's friends. Inside, a wall of pop, rock, jazz and classical LPs, plus 20,000 records out back await their turn under the needle. Curios and antiques decorate the dining space, and the rustic wooden tables and chairs add a homey feel.

Born and raised in a family that came from Yunnan Province, China, Lao Wu is adept at cooking up the region's strong flavors. The menu offers some 20 dishes with exotic names like tea salad (涼拌苦茶) and Yunnan papaya chicken (雲南木瓜雞).

Witch Cloud (巫雲) Address: 7, Alley 9, Ln 244, Roosevelt Rd Sec 3, Taipei City (台北市羅斯福路三段244巷9弄7號) Telephone: (02) 2369-3906 Open: Daily from noon till late Average meal: Lunch NT$399 adult; afternoon tea NT$250; dinner NT$699 (children's meals available) Details: Chinese menu; credit cards not accepted

For first-time patrons, Lao Wu's younger brother and wait staff are likely to suggest letting the chef decide what goes onto the table depending on the number of diners and the degree of spiciness they favor.

On a recent visit, my dining partner and I had the pickles fried with pork (醃菜炒肉), Yunnan pig skin salad (雲南大薄片) and curried chicken (咖哩雞). Not particularly good with spicy food, I felt an explosion of intense flavors with each mouthful, but quickly adapted and was soon wanting more. The curry chicken was notable for its melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Witch Cloud remains open as long as Lao Wu and his friends are enjoying a good meal, conversation and drink. Beers and spirits flow freely into the early hours, and Lao Wu is always willing to bring more dishes out from the kitchen, even well after midnight.

Music aficionados should not be shy as it's easy to make friends with the regulars via the turntable in the DJ booth.
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