Food from the Philippines rolls off the tongue as a phrase but it doesn't have the mouthwatering associations that, say, Thai, Vietnamese or even Indonesian cuisines have. Most people would be hard pressed to name one famous dish from the country. This is odd, in some respects, since it has had so many culinary influences, ranging from China to Mexico and Spain.
Possibly the best place in town to get better acquainted with Filipino food is Cres-art (CA) on Zhongshan North Road's section three. On Sunday the area turns into Little Manila and the place is so packed customers end up on the pavement outside eating from Styrofoam dishes.
Named after owner Imelda Ching's parents, it was Cresencia and Arturo who taught the young girl how to cook at their family restaurant in the Philippines. Catering, she said, is in her blood. She offered an enticing assortment of dishes, along with plain boiled rice.
PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES
Filipinos love the salt and sour combination and Mang Tomas' All-Around Sarsa condiment is an example of this. Made principally from breadcrumbs, vinegar and liver, it goes with most meats. The fried fatty pork lechon kawali, with crackling on the outside, was served in bite-sized slices. It was intensely rich and tasty, as you might imagine, and paired beautifully with Mang Tomas and a sweet chilli sauce. The peppery skinless sausages, or longanisa, were homemade and coated with soy sauce. The pork apritada was braised with tomatoes, onions and bell peppers, carrots and (again) a little vinegar.
The Filipino beefsteak came with a dash of lemon, soy sauce and onion gravy and was a winner. Pinkbet was a mixture of aubergine, squash, eggplant, green beans and bitter gourd, mixed with shrimp paste, garlic and onion. It had a complicated taste unlike anything else. Milkfish, apparently, is the Philippine's national sea dish and was marinated overnight in lemon, vinegar and garlic before being fried until the outside was brown. A purple confection called ube halaya was made from taro, butter, milk and sugar and was a sweet ending to the meal. Authentic tastes extended to the drinks selection and the zesty lemon Calmansi was refreshing.
Christian figurines decked with garlands, a Babel-like mix of languages, green plastic seats and Formica tables, plus a soundtrack from the disco era signaled a cheap but cheerful ambiance that is recommended.
In the next few months tough decisions will need to be made by the Taiwan People’s Party (TPP) and their pan-blue allies in the Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT). It will reveal just how real their alliance is with actual power at stake. Party founder Ko Wen-je (柯文哲) faced these tough questions, which we explored in part one of this series, “Ko Wen-je, the KMT’s prickly ally,” (Aug. 16, page 12). Ko was open to cooperation, but on his terms. He openly fretted about being “swallowed up” by the KMT, and was keenly aware of the experience of the People’s First Party
Aug. 25 to Aug. 31 Although Mr. Lin (林) had been married to his Japanese wife for a decade, their union was never legally recognized — and even their daughter was officially deemed illegitimate. During the first half of Japanese rule in Taiwan, only marriages between Japanese men and Taiwanese women were valid, unless the Taiwanese husband formally joined a Japanese household. In 1920, Lin took his frustrations directly to the Ministry of Home Affairs: “Since Japan took possession of Taiwan, we have obeyed the government’s directives and committed ourselves to breaking old Qing-era customs. Yet ... our marriages remain unrecognized,
Not long into Mistress Dispeller, a quietly jaw-dropping new documentary from director Elizabeth Lo, the film’s eponymous character lays out her thesis for ridding marriages of troublesome extra lovers. “When someone becomes a mistress,” she says, “it’s because they feel they don’t deserve complete love. She’s the one who needs our help the most.” Wang Zhenxi, a mistress dispeller based in north-central China’s Henan province, is one of a growing number of self-styled professionals who earn a living by intervening in people’s marriages — to “dispel” them of intruders. “I was looking for a love story set in China,” says Lo,
During the Metal Ages, prior to the arrival of the Dutch and Chinese, a great shift took place in indigenous material culture. Glass and agate beads, introduced after 400BC, completely replaced Taiwanese nephrite (jade) as the ornamental materials of choice, anthropologist Liu Jiun-Yu (劉俊昱) of the University of Washington wrote in a 2023 article. He added of the island’s modern indigenous peoples: “They are the descendants of prehistoric Formosans but have no nephrite-using cultures.” Moderns squint at that dynamic era of trade and cultural change through the mutually supporting lenses of later settler-colonialism and imperial power, which treated the indigenous as