As Red Sea hotels spring up, divers go down

In a strange land, Hamada was a familiar type, the lifelong surfer or bearded Outward Bound guide. His face is dark and bright, with a full goatee and a receding hairline. "If you understand how the reef, the growing, it takes a lot of years," he said in his rough but serviceable English, pushing wraparound sunglasses up onto his sunshiny pate. "If you love diving, you will be care about that."