Chef James Lin (林作煜) was taking a stroll around Bangkok when he came across the floating markets and noticed locals were addicted to a zesty appetizer that involved wrapping a variety of spices in banana leaves.
“I was really searching for food that nobody else in Taiwan was serving up,” said the Sheraton Taipei's chief executive chef, who has been honing his culinary skills in the US and oversaw the menu at the hotel's newly opened Sukhothai restaurant.
The spices — shallots, dried shrimps, coconut, chili, lime, young ginger, green mango, roasted peanuts and a sugar cane-based mieng sauce — are folded in a leaf and eaten raw. One can change the amount and combination of spices to personalize the dish, but either way it's a taste sensation.
PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES
Though Lin has substituted spinach for banana leaves in what he calls the South Sea salad roll, the other 58 dishes presented at Sukhothai mostle rely on imported ingredients from Thailand.
This means that traditional Thai dishes, which are often augmented in local restaurants so they taste like Chinese food, get a fresh lease on life. The original flavors of classics such as tom yum gung (sweet and sour shrimp soup) renew one's faith in the power of food to surprise and delight.
Joining Lin in providing authentic tastes is chef Phonlaphat Sudsaidee, from northeast Thailand, who has combined tradition and creativity to produce food rarely encountered here.
We were served what is called the khantoke sampler platter, consisting of nine small dishes, all of which have a unique flavor but nevertheless complemented each other. The som tam (green papaya and shrimp salad) came with a tart lime dressing and was eaten with rice that was pressed in the hand, traditional Thai style.
The meal came to a conclusion with Thai sweet rice and mango, and flour pastry with water chestnuts and sweet coconut cream. Sukhothai, by the way, means “golden dawn” and was the Kingdom of Siam's first capital in the 13th century.
Until Aug. 31 guests are offered a free appetizer of kratong thong (minced chicken tartlets) and ice fruit tea. Also, go to www.sheraton-taipei.com and download a coupon for one free dessert.
Thai food doesn't get much better than this, even in Thailand. And now is the time to visit.
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