Western-style food in Taipei is generally a tasteless translation of the original. Indifferent cooking oil, second-rate ingredients and lack of expertise in a Western-style kitchen result in dishes that are usually insipid and sometimes such a poor imitation of the authentic version that they are hard to recognize.
VVG Bistro is, as its name suggests, "very, very good." Specializing in Continental or European cuisine, VVG combines good taste with attention to detail and a reliance on time-consuming processes that prise flavor and goodness from the basic ingredients.
This attitude is reflected in the surroundings. A deck with a view of the quiet alley is the first impression of the restaurant. There are wrought-iron chairs plumped up with cushions and solid tables, fresh flowers and potted plants, set off by linen cloths and good, traditional cutlery. Everything from the ceiling to the floor has been tweaked to provide an intriguing environment that is best described as mix-and-match.
The centerpiece of VVG, however, is the open-plan kitchen where the staff can be seen grating lemons, mixing flour, pureeing and seeing to all the other tasks that ought to be lavished on a meal or drink. For instance, it takes 30 minutes to prepare an orange souffle, from dissolving the gelatine and whipping the egg whites to serving it straight to the table from the oven.
The menu provides the best idea of what you are about to receive: cognac mushroom soup (NT$150); foie gras mousse wrapped in a crepe, with truffle cream and bread (NT$370); pan-fried duck confit served with roast pear and cassis sauce (NT$520); cream truffle lamb chops served with eggplant and roast pearl onion (NT$650). These dishes are as good as they sound.
As for drinks, there is a reasonable range of German wines, some outstanding cellar wines and the best Belgian beers, along with speciality teas and beverages. French coffee, for the outstanding Sunday brunch, comes in a large bowl.
Interior designer Grace Wang (汪麗琴) opened VVG six years ago with the intention of transplanting the Continental dining experience to Taiwan. "My philosophy is this: For a good meal you need good ambiance, tableware and company. As for the food, you need to put your feeling into it. You put the effort in and people will appreciate this."
Time and effort rather than portion control and margins is the foundation of VVG and the recipe is clearly working. Wang and her partners also have a five-star catering company, with clients that include Louis Vuitton and Gucci. And a few doors down the alley is their latest fine dining establishment, VVG Table (
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