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Restaurant: La Brasserie, The Landis (亞都麗緻大飯店)

Cured Tasmanian salmon, warm Brie crepes, French beans and horseradish Mascarpone, at La Brasserie. PHOTO COURTESY O F THE LANDIS

Home to the renowned Paris 1930, touted as one of Taipei's top French restaurants by several industry guides, The Landis Taipei also houses some other restaurants that haven't had the same exposure but are nevertheless worth a visit, and will not leave such a huge dent in the wallet.

La Brasserie, which serves traditional French cuisine made by Chef Thomas Seiler, is currently host to chef Bert Lozey, who has prepared a West Australian menu that ends this weekend.

Exactly what constitutes Australian cuisine is up for debate as the country has been influenced by waves of immigration from many parts of the world and has a vast climate range, which produces a plethora of agricultural produce. Kangaroo burgers, witchetty grubs and vegemite are undoubtedly Aussie tucker, but cured salmon, warm Brie crepe with French beans and horseradish sauce does not immediately bring to mind the continent.

But the salmon is from Tasmania and the pairing of horseradish and fish is not an Anglo-Saxon tradition. However, it does mirror the Japanese duet of Wasabi, also a member of the mustard family, and sashimi.

Notes Address: 41, Minquan E Rd, Sec 2, Taipei 台北市民權東路二段41號 Telephone: (02) 2597 1234 Open: Breakfast 6am to 10am, Lunch 12am to 2:30pm, Dinner 6pm to 10:30pm (The West Australian menu is only available for lunch and dinner) Average meal: NT$1,130 Details: Menu in English; Credit cards accepted

Fusion, experimentation and fresh produce combine to form some exciting dishes. Lozey's mussel, tomato, fennel and saffron "Pot au Feu," which includes a crispy fish cake, packs a punch by merging Thai flavors with European character.

Roast lamb rib eye, with braised lettuce and baked white polenta, a ground corn dish -- once regarded as a staple in Italy and now transformed into a fashionable accompaniment -- is rounded off with Shiraz gravy. The prime cut of lamb had a slightly sweet, mild taste and was well complimented by the velvet Shiraz gravy which retained the qualities of the Australian wine.

There is a mismatch at the Brasserie, albeit a pleasant one. The Australian menu is contemporary, crosses boundaries and melds together divergent flavors, but the decoration, with brown leather upholstery, brass rails and wood paneling creates a warm, nostalgic atmosphere.

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