Fri, Jul 22, 2005 - Page 15 News List

Restaurant: Red Hut

Address: 411, Zhongshan N. Rd, Sec 6, Taipei (台北市中山北路六段411號)
Telephone: (02)2875 2666
Open: 11:30am to 3am
Average meal: NT$400
Details: Credit cards accepted

By Diana Freundl  /  STAFF REPORTER

Chicken steak at the Red Hut in Tianmu.

PHOTO: DIANA FREUNDL, TAIPEI TIMES

A sizable expatriate presence in the Taipei suburb of Tianmu has resulted in a variety of eateries catering to Western palettes. Many have passed the test of time by offering quality Italian, Mexican and German food, and there are even a few greasy spoon options. But for every success there are countless failures. The Red Hut is the latest European restaurant to open in the area and despite its excellent location and amazing patio space, its days could be numbered.

Billed as a restaurant, lounge bar and cafe, the establishment is a classic example of trying to be too many things instead of focusing on just one. The interspersed sofa areas and extensive drinks menu provide a great bar atmosphere, yet the large cake cooler, range of coffee drinks and plastic furniture seem more fitting for a cafe.

The menu offers a reasonable selection of starters, rice, pasta and steaks meals, but none of three meals we tried at the table was recommendable.

The red-wine fillet (NT$580), rib eye (NT$680), and chicken steak (NT$280) are said to be the house specialties along with pork knuckle and salmon. The chicken was grilled with a light barbeque sauce but little seasoning otherwise. No condiments came with the steaks apart from salt and a bottle of HP sauce. After the skin was peeled off and bone removed, there was little meat remaining.

The pasta (NT$220) made with fresh broccoli, mushrooms and assorted bell peppers was drenched in a large serving of white cream-based sauce. It was, however, better than the bland shrimp fried rice (NT$280) that tasted like it used a frozen veggie mix in place of fresh vegetables. The salad and homemade dressing were perfect, but not large enough to substitute for a main course.

Instead of ordering an appetizer, soup or salad separately, the best value is to opt for one of two set meals. A choice of salad, desert and a beverage can be added for NT$100, or the above plus an appetizer and soup for NT$200.

Afternoon tea is also available with cake and the choice of coffee or tea for NT$200. The last meal is served at 10:30pm but the kitchen stays open to serve bar snacks (NT$150-200) until 2am.

The most attractive aspect of the Red Hut is the building -- an old bungalow that has been remodeled, leaving the high ceilings, concrete floors and red brick interior. When the weather cools, the outside area with standing tables and bar stools will provide an excellent location for drinks.

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