Fri, Jul 01, 2005 - Page 15 News List

Restaurant: The Food - Japan

Address:AsiaWorld Courtyard, at the intersection of Nanjing East and Dunhua North roads (台北假日大飯店環亞台北一樓)
Telephone: (02) 2712 3560
Open: 11:30am to 10pm
Average meal: NT$500 per person
Details: Credit cards accepted. Menu in Chinese only

By David Momphard  /  STAFF REPORTER

Style over substance? Perhaps.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE FOOD

It may be called The Food, but the ambiance is the big attraction at this slick sushi bar tucked into the back courtyard of the AsiaWorld shopping center. It's been one of the more underutilized areas of AsiaWorld and was previously a glass-walled clothing store that rarely saw customers.

The interior has been converted into an ultra-modern and Spartan space, with tables sunk into the floor, a traditional dining area and a lounge area that management would likely rather see used as a waiting area. That's not going to happen until the food at The Food is as impressive as the furnishings.

On offer is a selection of sushi, sashimi and temaki, fish and vegetable combinations rolled in seaweed-wrapped cones. There are also items from the grill. Prices for The Food's fish range from NT$68 for a pair of California rolls to NT$380 for a premium slice of bluefin tuna. Grilled items start at around NT$380. Set menus for two, four, six and eight are also available and -- as with most varieties of Asian cuisine -- the more people you have at the table, the greater variety of items you can try.

That's not to say that The Food isn't worth trying if you're dining with just a friend. But if this is the situation, choose the expensive items when ordering, as The Food does these better. While this may be the case with many restaurants, at The Food so much attention is paid to the quality and presentation that simple California rolls suffer by comparison.

On my visit, the four slices of tuna I ordered were exquisitely spread out on a bed of ice with twigs and even a chunk of charcoal was incorporated into the dish. The tuna was succulent and fresh and the garnishes were cut after I'd ordered it rather than having sat before my arrival.

But the second round of items that came to the table -- California rolls and yuzi sushi -- seemed an afterthought and tasted like one, too. Though having a lovely name, the yuzi was nothing more than egg on top of rice.

A surprise at the end of the meal was a thimble of sesame mousse. Though a fresh idea for a mousse flavoring, the mousse itself could have been fresher, having tasted like it spent too long in the fridge.

If your feet are sore from shopping, The Food offers a stylish place to plop your bags and grab a light bite, but it won't be much better than what you'd find at some of the Japanese eateries in the food court downstairs.

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