Mon, Jan 17, 2005 - Page 16 News List

What the modern aristocrat wears

The Florence exhibition `Correspondences' shows how Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto put his print on the world of fashion

NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE , Florence, Italy

With Pitti Uomo begins a month-long cycle that tends to leave even the most dedicated follower of fashion feeling as glutted as a foie gras goose on corporate design agendas. Perhaps the world will never be treated to major retrospectives of designer oddities like Santa Rossa. Maybe there will never be a monograph devoted to the oeuvre of Reinhard Plank, a philosophical hatter ("A hat is like a small house," he claimed) whose duck-billed caps are formed from recycled ladies' headgear. Then again, who knows?

"The last thing I ever intended to be was a famous designer of so-called fashion," Yamamoto remarked at his celebratory dinner. "I only wanted to stay in my mother's dressmaking shop quietly and sew clothes."

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