A walking tour of a major metropolis might not seem to be the most convenient, enjoyable or safest way to sightsee while touring Taiwan. But life moves slowly in Tainan and exploring the historic city on foot is fun, especially for those with a whim for history or ancient and colorful Chinese architecture.
The nation's first official capital from between 1663 and 1885, Tainan is one of the few places in the country where history has been spared the wrecking ball and much of its long and colorful past can still be seen today. Walking is the most convenient way of seeing the 200 temples and countless Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644) and Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1911) structures that help make up Taiwan's history.
PHOTO: GAVIN PHIPPS, TAIPEI TIMES
The ideal place to begin a tour of Tainan is in the Anping District (安平區), where Koxinga (鄭成功) landed in Taiwan nearly 400 years ago and drove out the Dutch. Little remains of the original Anping Fort (安平古堡), which was destroyed by a typhoon in the 1800s, but several of the original Ming Dynasty red-brick walls, now strewn with the gnarled roots of banyan trees, offer vestiges of years gone by.
For a less tourist-oriented glimpse of Tainan's early days visitors need only walk out of the fort's main gate and enter anyone of the numerous adjoining alleyways. Here, countless buildings dating back several hundred years sit as they have for generations. Many of the structures are in ruins, but even so they give visitors an insight into construction methods and materials used during the Ming and Qing periods.
Touring the city itself is hassle free, as brown road signs direct visitors to all of the popular tourist attractions. The most prominent of these include the Confucian Temple (孔子廟), which was established in 1665; Chihkan Tower (once dubbed the "Tower of Red-haired Barbarians") built by the Dutch in 1653; the 300-year-old Grand South Gate (大南門); the Five Concubines Temple (五妃廟) which was built in 1683; and the imposing Great Queen of Heaven Temple (大天后宮), which was built in 1665 and served as an imperial residence.
Visitors wanting to seek out tourist-free historical buildings and temples need not look far in Tainan, as numerous narrow alleyways snake their way through the city and it's here that much of the old-worldly charm of Tainan sits hidden away waiting to be discovered.
These alleyways, where time has stood still and life seems to move at a snail's pace, can be found adjacent to nearly all of the city's smaller temples. They might be only a stone's throw from a major thoroughfare, but they are all places where, save for the odd barking dog, visitors can easily forget they are in a metropolis.
One of the most interesting and charming of these areas is Beishih Street (北勢街), which is part of an going project to restore what remains of the city's old western district. The narrow cobble-stoned alley is lined with renovated two-story structures, some of which date back more than 150 years.
Sadly not all of the old buildings in the area have survived, as visitors will discover when they reach the bustling junction of Beishih Street and Haian Road. The shattered outer walls are all that remain of many of the buildings that once lined what is now a major thoroughfare. As if to add insult to injury, many have been transformed into garish works of modern art.
While the eye-catching architecture and temples provide the focal point of a cultural excursion to Tainan, visitors may also spend a couple of hours shopping and purchase some gaudy fashion wear and accessories along the bustling shopping area adjacent to Chungcheng and Haian roads.
If shopping for last decades' fashions becomes a chore you might want to hang out at some of Tainan's trendy outdoor tea/coffee shops. Half a dozen teashops regularly open for business along the sidewalks close to the junction of Haian and Mingsheng roads.
Visitors looking to learn more about Tainan should check out Heritage Books. Located opposite the Confucian Temple, the small bookstore stocks a wide range of hefty tomes relating to the history of the city and Taiwan. While much of the more in depth material is available in Chinese-language only, the store stocks English-language guides and the staff are willing to help with enquiries.
Fortune Teller Street is adjacent to the War God Temple on Yungfu Road and the narrow alleyway is lined with small cramped stores where fortune tellers hang out. They have the ability to predict the future by comparing facial moles, or by analyzing your date of birth and its relationship to the Chinese Zodiac.
Jason Han says that the e-arrival card spat between South Korea and Taiwan shows that Seoul is signaling adherence to its “one-China” policy, while Taiwan’s response reflects a reciprocal approach. “Attempts to alter the diplomatic status quo often lead to tit-for-tat responses,” the analyst on international affairs tells the Taipei Times, adding that Taiwan may become more cautious in its dealings with South Korea going forward. Taipei has called on Seoul to correct its electronic entry system, which currently lists Taiwan as “China (Taiwan),” warning that reciprocal measures may follow if the wording is not changed before March 31. As of yesterday,
The Portuguese never established a presence on Taiwan, but they must have traded with the indigenous people because later traders reported that the locals referred to parts of deer using Portuguese words. What goods might the Portuguese have offered their indigenous trade partners? Among them must have been slaves, for the Portuguese dealt slaves across Asia. Though we often speak of “Portuguese” ships, imagining them as picturesque vessels manned by pointy-bearded Iberians, in Asia Portuguese shipping between local destinations was crewed by Asian seamen, with a handful of white or Eurasian officers. “Even the great carracks of 1,000-2,000 tons which plied
It’s only half the size of its more famous counterpart in Taipei, but the Botanical Garden of the National Museum of Nature Science (NMNS, 國立自然科學博物館植物園) is surely one of urban Taiwan’s most inviting green spaces. Covering 4.5 hectares immediately northeast of the government-run museum in Taichung’s North District (北區), the garden features more than 700 plant species, many of which are labeled in Chinese but not in English. Since its establishment in 1999, the site’s managers have done their best to replicate a number of native ecosystems, dividing the site into eight areas. The name of the Coral Atoll Zone might
Nuclear power is getting a second look in Southeast Asia as countries prepare to meet surging energy demand as they vie for artificial intelligence-focused data centers. Several Southeast Asian nations are reviving mothballed nuclear plans and setting ambitious targets and nearly half of the region could, if they pursue those goals, have nuclear energy in the 2030s. Even countries without current plans have signaled their interest. Southeast Asia has never produced a single watt of nuclear energy, despite long-held atomic ambitions. But that may soon change as pressure mounts to reduce emissions that contribute to climate change, while meeting growing power needs. The
RSS