Wafts of perfume thrill visitors as soon as they set foot in the frescoed halls of the Santa Maria Novella pharmacy in Florence, Italy, a perfumer to poets, film stars and noblewomen through the ages.
The perfumer actually traces its roots back to 1221 by Dominican friars who cultivated medicinal herbs to make potions and balms. The company is housed in medieval halls with spectacular views on a cloister in the city center.
The fame of its products soon spread beyond the walls of the monastery and in 1612 the pharmacy opened its doors to the public under the patronage of the Medici family, which became an ambassador for the brand in royal courts.
Photo: AFP
When she married French King Henry II, Catherine de Medici brought a bergamot-based perfume with her called “Eau de la Reine,” a revolutionary new fragrance that became wildly popular at the royal court.
“Perfumes were mixed with oil or vinegar before, but the monks had the intuition to use alcohol. ‘Eau de la Reine’ was the first famous European perfume to be produced with alcohol,” said Gianluca Foa, the pharmacy’s commercial director.
“Eau de la Reine” is still being produced by Santa Maria Novella, one of the products that have secured the success of the company despite the troubled world economy. Last year, Santa Maria Novella’s turnover went up 37 percent.
Photo: AFP
The windows and the counter are unchanged since 1612, even though the Dominicans were forced to leave in 1886 when the Italian state seized the monastery as part of a large-scale confiscation of church property.
It was then sold to the nephew of the last Dominican abbot and four generations of that same family have run the company ever since.
Eighty percent of the company’s clients now are foreign — like Sabrina from China.
Photo: AFP
“I thought it was just a shop before coming here, but this is fabulous,” she said, admiring the frescoes.
Different products sell better in different countries. Calendula cream sells well in China, mint geranium pastilles in Japan, idralia cream in South Korea.
The firm has also invested in refurbishing the deconsecrated church next door, San Niccolo, into a very special kind of archive.
The shelves are filled with beauty creams, perfumes, liquors and candles, all wrapped in simple yet elegant packaging.
Many of the ingredients come from Santa Maria Novella’s own plantations of medicinal herbs — far from the monastery garden walls.
The main laboratory is a 4,500m2 space outside of the historical center, where production is still very much handmade — from making soap bars, to decorating candles, to labeling.
Soap bars — like rolls of cheese — are dried out for two months in large airing cupboards before being sold off around the world.
The complexity of the production methods and the expense of the raw materials also help ensure there are few counterfeits around.
Santa Maria Novella’s discreet quality has attracted big names over the centuries: from the poets Dante and Lord Byron to actresses Penelope Cruz and Monica Bellucci, to aristocrats such as Princess Caroline of Monaco.
Santa Maria Novella has 200 outlets, including in Auckland and Hong Kong.
“Today, Santa Maria Novella’s clients are getting younger and younger. It’s good. They transmit the enthusiasm for our products and they live longer,” said Eugenio Alphandery, the company’s chief executive.
The quality comes at a price, however. A small perfume bottle sells for 80 euros (US$105) and a potpourri — a specialty of the house — is 15 euros.
The cheapest gift? A box of delicious pastilles at 5 euros.
Among the rows of vibrators, rubber torsos and leather harnesses at a Chinese sex toys exhibition in Shanghai this weekend, the beginnings of an artificial intelligence (AI)-driven shift in the industry quietly pulsed. China manufactures about 70 percent of the world’s sex toys, most of it the “hardware” on display at the fair — whether that be technicolor tentacled dildos or hyper-realistic personalized silicone dolls. Yet smart toys have been rising in popularity for some time. Many major European and US brands already offer tech-enhanced products that can enable long-distance love, monitor well-being and even bring people one step closer to
TRANSFORMATION: Taiwan is now home to the largest Google hardware research and development center outside of the US, thanks to the nation’s economic policies President Tsai Ing-wen (蔡英文) yesterday attended an event marking the opening of Google’s second hardware research and development (R&D) office in Taiwan, which was held at New Taipei City’s Banciao District (板橋). This signals Taiwan’s transformation into the world’s largest Google hardware research and development center outside of the US, validating the nation’s economic policy in the past eight years, she said. The “five plus two” innovative industries policy, “six core strategic industries” initiative and infrastructure projects have grown the national industry and established resilient supply chains that withstood the COVID-19 pandemic, Tsai said. Taiwan has improved investment conditions of the domestic economy
Malaysia’s leader yesterday announced plans to build a massive semiconductor design park, aiming to boost the Southeast Asian nation’s role in the global chip industry. A prominent player in the semiconductor industry for decades, Malaysia accounts for an estimated 13 percent of global back-end manufacturing, according to German tech giant Bosch. Now it wants to go beyond production and emerge as a chip design powerhouse too, Malaysian Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim said. “I am pleased to announce the largest IC (integrated circuit) Design Park in Southeast Asia, that will house world-class anchor tenants and collaborate with global companies such as Arm [Holdings PLC],”
MAJOR BENEFICIARY: The company benefits from TSMC’s advanced packaging scarcity, given robust demand for Nvidia AI chips, analysts said ASE Technology Holding Co (ASE, 日月光投控), the world’s biggest chip packaging and testing service provider, yesterday said it is raising its equipment capital expenditure budget by 10 percent this year to expand leading-edge and advanced packing and testing capacity amid strong artificial intelligence (AI) and high-performance computing chip demand. This is on top of the 40 to 50 percent annual increase in its capital spending budget to more than the US$1.7 billion to announced in February. About half of the equipment capital expenditure would be spent on leading-edge and advanced packaging and testing technology, the company said. ASE is considered by analysts