Wed, Jun 26, 2019 page7

• FEATURE: Nicaraguan cigars become premium

  UP IN SMOKE: Begun by Cubans who fled that nation’s 1959 revolution, the cigar industry and its brands have benefited from the US’ embargo on Havana’s cigars

  • AFP, ESTELI, Nicaragua
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  From “rich and full-bodied” to “complex with hints of licorice,” aficionados exhaust the lexicon to capture the essence of Nicaragua’s most highly prized produce — not wine, but cigars, which are especially popular in the US.

  The recognition turns the vibrant green hills of Esteli, in the Central American country’s northwest, into a hive of activity come harvest time.

  There, 800m above sea level, half of the population of 110,000 is employed in the tobacco industry — picking, drying or curing, or rolling cigars in factories.

  

  A worker hangs tobacco leaves to dry in the rafters of a drying shed on a tobacco farm in Esteli, Nicaragua, on May 17.

  Photo: AFP

  “No one has soil as good for tobacco as Nicaragua,” said Nestor Plasencia, whose family business is one of the nation’s leading cigar exporters, as he sits and savors the aroma of one of their creations.

  Nutrient-rich volcanic soil and know-how imported from Cuba more than 50 years ago, as well as a knowledgeable workforce, have set Nicaragua apart when it comes to growing flavorful top-quality tobacco.

  Apart from Esteli, the two other tobacco-growing regions are the Condega and Jalapa valleys in the north, each with their own distinct soils and minerals.

  

  A worker cuts tobacco leaves on a farm in Esteli, Nicaragua, on May 17.

  Photo: AFP

  Part of the lure of Nicaraguan tobacco is that “the same seeds planted in different soils and climatic regions give different flavors,” Plasencia said, between puffs.

  Cuban cigars might easily outsell the lesser-known Nicaraguan product in Europe, but Nicaraguan brands have taken advantage of the crippling US embargo on Havana — in place since 1961 — to sell to the Americans.

  Nicaraguan cigar exports to the US have increased by 40 percent since 2008, reaching 140 million cigars last year, outstripping the Dominican Republic and Honduras, Cigar Association of America (CAA) data showed.

  Nicaragua’s industry is a young one — it was started by Cuban exiles who fled Fidel Castro’s 1959 revolution. When Nicaragua’s civil war ended at the start of the 1990s, the industry started to flourish.

  “My family started in tobacco in Cuba in 1865. Today we operate in Nicaragua and Honduras,” Plasencia said.

  Today, the country has 70 factories producing more than 5,000 brands, Nicaraguan Chamber of Tobacco Producers director Wenceslao Castillo said.

  Karina Rivera, a quality-control supervisor at Plasencia Cigars, tests an average of eight cigars a day.

  “If I see that it’s not at the level of quality demanded by customers, we report immediately to find out where the problem is,” she said.

  Smokers say a lot is going on in a cigar during puffs, tasting richness, balance and complexity — a variety of flavors and aromas that have helped several Nicaraguan brands conquer the US market.

  Last year, US trade magazine Cigar Aficionado named seven Nicaraguan brands in the top 10 of its annual ranking.

  As for the Best Cigar of the Year, the “E.P. Carrillo Encore Majestic” is made in the Dominican Republic, but with Nicaraguan tobacco, the magazine said.

  “The strength of the Nicaraguan tobacco industry is our focus on quality, which is why we are today the largest exporter of premium cigars to the United States,” Castillo said.

  It is clear that in the rarified world of premium cigars, names are important. To the aficionado, in clubs and the best bars, they trip off the tongue — La Opulencia Toro, La Imperiosa, Villiger La Vencedora Churchill.

  “We believe that 60 to 70 percent of our success is due to the way tobacco is dried and the time spent on fermentation and aging — we don’t rush things,” Castillo said.

  “The trilogy of this success is the soils, the microclimate and the people, the care they put into their work,” said Plasencia, who runs two factories in Nicaragua and exports 15 million cigars a year to the US.

  The cigar industry has had to do more that resist climatic changes to survive. It is one of the few to emerge largely unscathed from the political and economic crisis that has rocked Nicaragua for more than a year.

  “If it weren’t for these factories, Esteli would surely be deserted,” said 43-year-old Silvia Moreno, who has worked in the tobacco industry for half her life.
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