A rapt and raucous audience, a group of chess fanatics watch a cut-throat game play out on a park bench. Rook takes knight, a flurry of moves, then the game is over in an instant. The loser surrenders a Ukrainian hryvnia banknote and the pieces are reset for another game on the battered board.
In the western city of Lviv, Ukraine’s capital of chess, local players make a point of keeping up the local tradition of street games, despite chilly weather and the war raging to the east.
“Chess is a very difficult game,” said Andrei Volokitin, the reigning champion of Ukraine.
Photo: AFP
“It needs memory, calculation, strategy, positional thinking,” the 35-year-old grandmaster said.
However, he is smart enough to know that his foresight on the board does not extend to international affairs. He offers no predictions concerning the Russian invasion wreaking havoc in his country.
“I’m afraid this can continue a few months, maybe more, I don’t know,” he said. “This is the new reality for all people in Ukraine.”
Lviv — just 70km from the Polish border — has so far been largely spared since Russia launched its invasion on Feb. 24.
The city considers itself the cultural epicenter of Ukraine.
Its cobbled streets are lined with coffee shops, boutiques and neon-lit restaurants, even if its nightlife is curbed by the curfews imposed under martial law.
However, Lviv is also known as the chess capital of Ukraine.
The old Soviet Union to which Ukraine belonged until 1991 invested heavily in developing chess talent, cherishing the USSR’s longstanding dominance in the game. The city’s continuing obsession with chess is a legacy of those times.
All along the central promenade, droves of mostly men gather to watch amateur players compete.
Volokitin said there are between 20 and 30 active grandmasters among Lviv’s 700,000 residents. “It’s a traditional chess city,” he said.
Yet the chess world has been divided by Russian President Vladimir Putin’s order to invade Ukraine. The International Chess Federation (FIDE) has already canceled tournaments in Russia, where the game is also wildly popular, and banned its flag from flying at events, but the Ukrainian Chess Federation wants more.
It is pushing for a total ban on Russian players “under any flag or without it.”
Volokitin has signed an open letter pledging not to play Russians.
“During the killing of our civilians, our women and children, and destroying our cities I think it’s logical,” he said.
Last week, FIDE banned the Russia and Belarus teams from its tournaments.
On Monday, it banned top Russian grandmaster Sergey Karjakin from its tournaments for six months over his outspoken support for the invasion.
For the moment, other Russian players can still play.
So next week, Volokitin travels to the European Individual Chess Championship in Slovenia to put forward Ukraine’s case for extending the ban.
He has received a special dispensation on the government’s order forbidding men aged between 18 and 60 from leaving the country, he said.
On Friday a Russian airstrike hit a plane repair plant next to Lviv’s airport.
Although no one was killed, it was a clear sign that the war was drawing closer to the city, after three weeks of it having escaped relatively unscathed.
Nevertheless, the city’s chess fans still gather along the promenade for their games, some offering their prognosis on the conflict as the one-month marker approaches.
Oleh Chernobayev, 52, only lasted 10 minutes in his game with Volokitin, but he is more optimistic about Ukraine’s chances in the war.
“We will definitely win,” he said. “We have good people, people without weapons are stopping tanks. They can’t take Kyiv. Our guys are very brave.”
Nearby, Oleksander, a self-declared stalwart of the city’s chess benches, holds court as he plays.
“This is a difficult game, a game of the mind,” he said.
A young challenger in a baseball cap has him locked in a grueling match, but the pauses between his moves get longer and longer, until eventually the young pretender resigns the game.
“We need to compete for Ukraine the same way we compete in chess,” Oleksander said.
IN-HOUSE BUSINESS: LA Clippers coach Tyronn Lue said that the reason for the team’s poor form was not due to Paul, but the player was not a good fit for them Chris Paul’s return stint with the Los Angeles Clippers has come to an abrupt and stunning end, with the franchise parting ways with one of its greatest players in a late-night meeting on Wednesday that adds another layer of drama to the team’s terrible start this season. The news was delivered in a meeting in Atlanta, Georgia, that ended at about 2am, Clippers basketball operations president Lawrence Frank said. Frank said he made the decision to sever ties with Paul on Sunday then told the franchise’s career assist leader that he needed to see him on Tuesday in Atlanta. Frank did not confirm
Kylian Mbappe on Wednesday scored twice and had an assist as Real Madrid beat Athletic Bilbao 3-0 to end a three-match winless streak in La Liga. Eduardo Camavinga also found the net for Madrid as they moved back within one point of Barcelona, who beat Atletico Madrid 3-1 on Tuesday. Both 19th-round matches were moved forward because Real Madrid, Barcelona, Athletic Club and Atletico Madrid are to play in the Supercopa de Espana semi-finals in Saudi Arabia next month. Real Madrid were coming off league draws against Girona, Elche and Rayo Vallecano. It was their second win in their past six matches in
There was another win for Arsenal in the Premier League on Wednesday, but more misery for Liverpool and their under-fire manager, Arne Slot. While Arsenal accelerated their title charge with a 2-0 victory over Brentford to regain a five-point lead, Liverpool needed a late own-goal just to salvage a 1-1 draw with Sunderland AFC at Anfield. Slot is back under pressure, with his team languishing in eighth place in a disappointing title defense and his decision to leave star forward Mohamed Salah out of the starting lineup for a second straight game likely to be heavily scrutinized. “It’s clear that teams that play
The Olympic flame for the Milan Cortina Winter Games landed in Rome on Thursday following a handover in Greece. The flame was carried in a small lantern aboard an ITA Airways flight between the Greek and Italian capitals. Tennis player Jasmine Paolini — an Olympic gold medalist — and local organizing committee president Giovanni Malago carried the flame off the plane. “I feel honored. It’s an incredible emotion,” Paolini said in brief remarks before the lantern was driven away toward the presidential palace. A 63-day torch relay covering 12,000km is to start in Rome today and wind its way through all 110 Italian provinces