The Dagang Mountain (大崗山) Scenic Area spans four districts of Kaohsiung: Yanchao ( 燕巢), Alian (阿蓮), Tianliao (田寮) and Gangshan,(崗山). The highest point, Dagang Mountain (310m), is the primary objective of most hikers seeking to bag one of Taiwan’s “Small 100 Peaks” (小百岳), the 100 “suburban mountains” that are accessible in the suburbs of Taiwan’s cities and counties.
A PEAK FOR ALL SEASONS
Early on a Saturday morning last month I set out by car for the commute to Gangshan to hike No 74 of the “Small 100 Peaks.” A 30-minute drive from either Tainan or Kaohsiung, it’s possible to hike to the peak and back in a couple of hours, though there are many other worthy sites to visit on the mountain.
Photo: Mark Roche
With the weather a bit cooler, there were a lot of people on the trail. However, as we wandered deeper into the mountain area there was far less foot traffic on the maze of trails, which are a mixture of concrete and dirt and easy to navigate. On a clear day there are good views of the plains below. After an hour or so the peak was bagged.
The second site on my list is Panlong Gorge, (盤龍峽谷). During the rainy season this area can be a bit swampy and at low altitude the humidity is oppressive in summer. But during the autumn months the temperature is perfect and there’s even a bit of a chill with some breeze channeled through the narrow passage.
The gorge is only 247m in length, but it does have something of a Jurassic feel about it. Coral limestone towers overhead and dense vegetation creeping across the walls and over the top permits only narrow streaks of dappling to light the way.
Photo: Mark Roche
Halfway through the hike I stopped at one of the numerous snack stands dotted all over the mountain for a danbing (蛋餅, “egg pancake”). A variety of other snacks are available at these stands with hot and cold drinks at very reasonable prices.
CAVE TEMPLE FOR A CRAZY MONK
There was one more stop before finishing up and that was the Tianling Cave (天靈洞). This temple built inside a natural limestone cave is one of the highlights of the trip. The entrance is easy to miss due to its small size and visitors have to crouch down and bend their head to squeeze inside. Once in, there is little light to guide the way until the passageway opens up to reveal a more cavernous enclosure.
Photo: Mark Roche
Roughly hewn altars are adorned with statues of various deities and give the impression that it might have been the hideout for a secret sect in days past. Offerings of fruit and incense indicate that it is still a popular place of worship.
The shrine is dedicated to Zen Master Jigong, (濟公, 1130-1209), who purportedly possessed supernatural powers that he used to help the poor and fight injustice. However, he was also known for his wild and eccentric behavior refusing to follow Buddhist monastic rules by consuming alcohol and meat.
Dagang Mountain has pretty much something for everyone. Winding routes to take for whatever kind of hike — moderate or challenging — you’re looking for. Food and drink trucks all along the way. Nice views and a variety of trails. The interaction with the locals and fresh fruit vendors at the trail head. It’s a non-weather dependent hike that can be accessed all year round and it’s convenient for parking.
Photo courtesy of Nathan Miller
By the end of the hike we had been out for close to five hours and covered a distance of 16 kilometers without having to backtrack, four loops on different trails. I’m sure I’ll be back for another hike and perhaps enjoy a roast chicken dinner at the popular 101 Chicken (雷達土雞城) as I watch the sun go down.
Photo: Mark Roche
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