Summer is a time for gourds and melons, a celebration of cool juices and mild, quenching flavors. Of the cornucopia of these cucurbitaceae, as the gourd family is known, the cucumber is probably the most widely known around the world. In Taiwan, the most commonly found are a small variety similar to Lebanese cucumbers, which go by the name of “small cucumbers” (小黃瓜), distinguishing them from the large cucumbers more commonly found in European cuisine. Small cucumbers are extraordinarily versatile, and can be eaten directly from the vine or incorporated into a vast array of pickles and salads.
Given that cucumbers are generally eaten raw or with the slightest preparation, it is best to seek out good quality “organic,” or at least naturally grown, ones. The difference in quality can be quite astonishing.
Cucumbers are regularly listed as one of the dirty dozen of fruit and vegetables with high levels of pesticide residue, due to the fact that ripening on the vine, fruit about to be harvested is often contaminated with spray directed at less mature cucumbers. Last year, Common Health magazine published a long article highlighting the dangers of eating mass-produced cucumbers that have not been properly washed. The irony, as with so much produce these days, is that while we seek to eat vegetable-focused diets for the good of our bodies and the environment, what we are in fact getting are large doses of chemical additives that are detrimental to both. The article suggests blanching cucumbers in boiling water before using them, a process I have not tried and which may help remove a range of toxins and bacteria from the skins, but which thoroughly goes against the grain when it comes to enjoying nature’s bounty in all its goodness.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
I once visited an organic farm not far from where I live in Hualien, where the farmer encouraged everyone to eat a freshly picked cucumber, warm from the sun and still cool inside. He broke one in half then stuck it back together again, the sap holding the broken cucumber together. This is not a party trick that can be replicated with store bought cucumbers. His aim was to highlight the greater abundance of goodness contained within, and it impressively made the point. Cucumbers raised with the aid of chemicals, whether to remove bugs or simply promote growth, were nothing compared to those that drew on the natural strength of well-cared-for soil.
While such cucumbers are not available to everyone, it is simply worth noting that washing, or even blanching, cucumbers, to get the worst of the contaminants off might not be such a bad idea. Peeling cucumbers is also an option, but this seems a great shame as it reduces the cucumbers lovely crunch and also removes one of the richest sources of nutrients.
The most common cucumber dish in Taiwan is a simple cucumber pickle that uses garlic, chili and a mix of vinegar, sugar and salt to produce a tasty, crunchy dish that can be eaten after a pickling time of just four to five hours. Freshly made with good ingredients, this simple side dish is perfect to balance a bowl of beef noodles. Don’t be deceived by its simple preparation though, as many small noodle joints around Taiwan manage to screw it up, serving up cucumbers that are too highly flavored, too soggy or both.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Chinese medical and culinary lore does not recommend serving cucumber with tomatoes, chilies or celery, suggesting that it contains a catabolic enzyme that inhibits the human body’s ability to absorb the Vitamin C from these vegetables. Given that cucumber tastes great with all three of these vegetables, I am rather inclined to ignore this advice and take my lead from the good flavors that these combinations provide.
Tzatziki with Roast Lamb Rack
Recipe (serves four)
A dish of yogurt and cucumber can be found all around the Mediterranean and through the Middle East, with the Greek tzatziki probably being the best known, featuring in numerous supposedly healthy dip packs, but there is the Turkish cacik and Iranian mast-o-khiar among many other variations. This dish stands or falls on the quality of the yogurt used and given the small selection available in Taiwan, homemade is definitely the best. I have had mixed results with commercial yogurt. I always strain my yogurt before use for this dish, liking the thicker creamy texture, and have found that some commercial brands do not strain well, leading me to suspect the addition of agents that impede the separation of the whey and curds. Rack of lamb is a relatively expensive cut of meat, but makes up for that by requiring almost no preparation, and this is a luxury one-pot meal that takes almost no time to put together and serves up real posh and sophisticated. Add a bottle of nice red wine and you’ve got yourself a party.
Ingredients
For the Tzatziki
2 Lebanese cucumbers (小黃瓜)
300ml yogurt (preferably homemade), strained
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
10 mint leaves, finely minced
Pinch paprika
Salt and pepper
For the lamb
Two racks of lamb (6-8 bones each)
3 waxy potatoes
10 cherry tomatoes
1/3 cup black olives, deseeded, and cut in half
5-6 cloves of garlic, sliced
Sprig of rosemary
4 tbsp olive oil
Directions
For the tzatziki:
1. First make the tzatziki, which can benefit from a little time to settle in the fridge while you do the other stuff.
2. Wash the cucumber and grate coarsely. Sprinkle with salt and mix. Leave for half an hour until the cucumber releases it water.
3. Squeeze the grated cucumber to remove as much liquid as possible.
4. Mix with the thick yogurt, then add the garlic, lemon juice, mint, salt and pepper. Add a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. At this point the garlic might seem a little sharp, but an hour in the fridge will soften the flavor considerably. If you are planning to use the tzatziki immediately, you can soak the garlic in the olive oil for a short time before adding it to the yogurt, beginning the curing process before the final assemblage.
6. To serve, top with a little more olive oil, a sprinkling of mint and paprika.
For the lamb:
1. Preheat the oven to 190C.
2. Cut the peeled potatoes into large wedges and boil until tender, about 20 minutes.
3. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half and squeeze out the pips.
4. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
5. Add olive oil to a larger saute pan with a metal handle (as the pan will go from stove top to oven). Sear the fatty side of the lamb until golden, one rack at a time, about 2 minutes each.
6. Set the lamb aside. Drain the potatoes and put them into the fragrant oil. Mash it down slightly with a masher or the back of a steel spatula. Cook over medium heat until the potatoes begin to crisp, about 5 minutes.
7. Add the tomatoes, garlic, olives and rosemary and stir, adding a bit of olive oil if the mixture seems too dry. Cook over medium heat for another 5 minutes, allowing the potatoes to crisp a little further.
8. Place the lamb on top and transfer to the oven. Cook for about 20 minutes until the center is pink.
9. When the lamb is cooked to your liking, slice into chops and serve with the crispy potato mix and an extra drizzle of olive oil.
10. Add the tzatziki as a creamy side dish.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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