In Taipei’s East District (東區), where the number of izakaya — the Japanese version of tapas bars — rivals that of 7-Elevens, Sakuta’s Izakaya Bar has three venues serving mostly grilled munchies that pair well with ice-cold beer in the summertime.
I had previously visited two of them. Each is pleasantly snug and simply decorated with wooden furnishings and a bar around which diners sit, feast and imbibe in a casual atmosphere. On a recent Sunday, my dining companion and I visited the third venue. Unfortunately, we later wished we had stuck to the ones that we know and adore.
Much larger in size, the establishment we visited boasts a larger menu that includes not only barbecued items but a selection of sashimi, hand rolls and stir-fried and deep-fried dishes. The warm, relaxed feel that permeates the two smaller bars, however, is replaced here by the more formal mannerism of a restaurant. The waitstaff was equally efficient but short on smiles, though one showed a fleeting enthusiasm after I started taking photographs of our food — I could be a food blogger, perhaps?
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
That said, the food at Sakuta’s is consistently good at all its branches. Many house specialties are yakitori items, or skewered chicken. The chicken cartilage skewer (烤雞軟骨, NT$80) is crunchy and fun to eat, and the chicken tail skewer (雞尾椎串燒, NT$50) — fatty chunks known in English as the Pope’s nose or pygostyle and in Chinese as “chicken butt” (雞屁股) — was thoughtfully deboned and simply seasoned with a light dusting of salt.
Aiming for a richer palate, the homemade chicken cartilage and meat roll (本家手造軟骨雞肉棒, NT$80) offers an exciting blend of textures and flavors by mixing finely chopped cartilage and minced meat, complemented with sliced ginger, chopped scallions and mayonnaise. The chicken wing stuffed with fish roe (明太子雞翅, NT$150) is a delightful union of juicy meat and oceanic delicacies. Meanwhile, the prawns with sesame and wasabi (胡麻芥末大明蝦, NT$160) was a textbook example of the Japanese love of wasabi and mayonnaise, and the two indeed went well with the shellfish.
As portions at izakaya are usually small and meant to be shared by a table, visitors looking to fill themselves up can order individual servings of salmon ochatsuke (rice with tea, 鮭魚茶泡飯, NT$120) or rice ball (飯糰, NT$50), which is baked until it has a golden crunchy crust, and comes in flavors including salmon and plum. For tipplers, meals can be accompanied by a variety of beer, sake, shochu and homemade plum wine.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
Those looking for a cozy, casual izakaya feel should try the two smaller venues. One is located across the alley from the establishment reviewed above at 9, Ln 160, Dunhua S Rd Sec 1, Taipei City (台北市敦化南路一段160巷9號), tel: 8771-3979. The other is located at 63, Ln 223, Zhongxiao E Rd Sec 4, Taipei City (台北市忠孝東路四段223巷63號), tel: 2752-5279. Both are open until 1am.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
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