Gindaco is a novelty among Japanese fast food restaurant chains in Taipei. It serves a street food staple — takoyaki, or octopus dumplings — in an airy, minimalist setting that feels a bit like a Japanese inn. There are lots of natural colors, low wooden tables and benches and round paper lanterns.
While the dining area is clean and Zen-quiet, the shop puts on a festive air. You’ll hear the constant, hypnotic plucking of the samisen, Japan’s version of the banjo, piped through the shop’s stereo, luring passersby away from the clothing shops and brisk traffic on Roosevelt and Xinsheng South roads. Walk in and get a jolt of the requisite hospitality as service staff in matching hats and blue robes yell out “welcome” in Japanese.
The ball-shaped takoyaki are made from a batter mixed with pickled ginger, spring onion and boiled octopus, and cooked upon order on griddles in full view at the front of the shop. Sip on Coke, Sprite or Nestea lemon tea (NT$25) from the soda fountain or matcha (powdered green tea NT$50) while waiting for your food — it usually takes around five minutes.
While local versions of takoyaki can be found at night markets, the finer details of Gindaco’s recipe make it worth the trip for fans of this Osaka treat. Each dumpling, which measures around 2cm in diameter, is crispy golden on the outside and full of deep-fried goodness without tasting too oily. The savory filling is creamy from the batter and chewy from the octopus. The filling can be scorching hot, so be careful with the first few bites. Popping a whole one into your mouth wouldn’t be wise.
As if the dumplings weren’t rich enough already, Gindaco garnishes them with a dollop of sweet mayonnaise and soy sauce along with one of three toppings: “original flavor,” which means topped with bonito flakes (NT$110 for six, NT$140 for 10), scrambled egg (NT$120 for six, NT$160 for 10) and green onions and seaweed shavings (NT$120 for six, NT$160 for 10).
The shop menu pushes a set meal of six original flavor takoyaki and a drink for NT$120, which makes a reasonably filling meal for one or a light snack for two.
For those not feeling adventurous, there are three kinds of fried noodles: salad vegetable (清香野菜燒麵), pork (濃厚豚骨燒麵), and the “house specialty” (招牌銀燒麵) (NT$110 each or NT$69 for a small portion). The house specialty has pork, cabbage and sprouts cooked in a tangy Worcestershire-like sauce. Other standard Japanese fare is also available on the side. Miso soup is NT$35, matcha ice cream is NT$45 and sweet red bean or cream griddle cakes are NT$30.
Long lines were common when Gindaco opened its first branch in Gongguan (公館) in 2005. It’s much easier to get a space these days, and the Japanese chef that often manned the griddle wasn’t there on a visit earlier this week. But the chain continues to expand, and opened branches in Tianmu (天母) and Ximending (西門町) last year.
For information on other locations in Taiwan, go to www.gindaco.com/contents/store/kaigai/taiwan.html#taiwan01.
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