In a city with the greatest Gothic cathedral in Germany and no fewer than a dozen Romanesque churches, adding a pair of slender fluted minarets would scarcely alter the skyline. Yet plans for a new mosque are rattling this ancient city to its foundations.
Cologne's largely Turkish Muslim population is pushing for approval to build what would be one of Germany's largest mosques, in a working-class district across town from the cathedral's mighty spires.
Predictably, an extreme-right local political party has waged a noisy, xenophobic protest campaign, drumming up support from its far-right allies in Austria and Belgium.
But the proposal has also drawn fierce criticism from a respected German-Jewish writer, Ralph Giordano, who said the mosque would be "an expression of the creeping Islamization of our land." And he does not want to see women shrouded in veils on German streets, he said.
Giordano's charged remarks, first made at a recent public forum here, have catapulted this local dispute into a national debate in Germany over how a secular society, with Christian roots, should accommodate the religious yearnings of its growing Muslim minority.
Mosques have risen in recent years in Berlin, Mannheim and Duisburg, each time provoking some hand-wringing among residents. But the dispute in Cologne, a city Pope Benedict XVI once called the Rome of the north, seems deeper and more far-reaching.
While Turkey itself is debating the role of Islam in its political life, Germans are starting to ask how -- or even if -- the 2.7 million people of Turkish descent here can square their religious and cultural beliefs with a pluralistic society that enshrines the rights of women.
Giordano, a Holocaust survivor, has been sharply criticized, including by fellow Jews, and has even received death threats. But others say he is giving voice to Germans, who for reasons of their past, are reluctant to express misgivings about the rise of Islam in their midst.
"We have a common historical background that makes us overly cautious in dealing with these issues," said Cologne Mayor Fritz Schramma, who supports the mosque but is not without his qualms.
"For me, it is self-evident that the Muslims need to have a prestigious place of worship," said Schramma, who belongs to the center-right Christian Democratic Union. "But it bothers me when people have lived here for 35 years and they don't speak a single word of German."
Cologne's Roman Catholic leader, Cardinal Joachim Meisner, is similarly ambivalent. Asked in a radio interview if he was afraid of the mosque, he said, "I don't want to say I'm afraid, but I have an uneasy feeling."
These statements rankle German-Turkish leaders, who have been working with the city since 2001 to build a mosque on the site of a converted drug factory, which now houses a far smaller mosque, a community center and the offices of the Turkish-Islamic Union for Religious Affairs.
"The 120,000 Muslims of Cologne don't have a single place they can point to with pride as the symbol of our faith," said Bekir Alboga, leader of interreligious dialogue at the union, which is known as Ditib.
"Christians have their churches, Jews have their synagogues," he said.
Alboga, a 44-year-old Turkish imam who immigrated here at 18 and speaks rapid-fire German, said the mosque would be a "crowning moment for religious tolerance."
Given Germany's dark history, he added, "German politicians need to be careful about what they say."
Alboga said he was particularly dismayed by Meisner, because the Catholic Church, along with Germany's Protestant churches, has long supported the mosque. Ditib, he said, is a moderate organization that acts as a "bulwark against radicalism and terrorism." It plans to finance the project, which will cost more than US$20 million, entirely through donations.
Public opinion about the pro-ject seems guardedly supportive, with a majority of residents saying they favor it, though more than a quarter want its size to be reduced. The polls, taken for a local newspaper, use small samples, 500 people, limiting their usefulness as a gauge of popular sentiment in city of one million.
Cologne, with one of the largest Muslim populations of any German city, already has nearly 30 mosques. Most are in converted factories or warehouses, often tucked away in hidden courtyards, which has contributed to a sense that Muslims in Germany can only worship furtively.
The new mosque would put Islam in plain sight -- all the more so because the design calls for a domed building with glass walls. Showing off a model designed by a German architect who specializes in churches, Alboga said, "Our hearts are open, our doors are open, our mosque is open."
In some ways, the mosque seems calculated to avoid touching nerves. It would not be built near a church or loom over its neighbors, like the new mosque in Duisburg. It would be flanked by multistory office buildings and a giant television tower, which would dwarf its minarets. They would be only one-third the height of the cathedral's spires.
Yet the Turkish community has run into fervent and organized opposition.
The far-right party Pro Cologne, which holds five of the 90 seats in the city council, collected 23,000 signatures on a petition demanding the halting of the project. The city says only 15,000 of them were genuine.
On June 16, Pro Cologne mobilized 200 people at a rally to protest the mosque. Among those on hand were the leaders of Austria's Freedom Party, which was founded by Joerg Haider, and the extremist party Vlaams Belang, or Flemish Interest, from Antwerp. Both advocate the deportation of immigrants.
Cologne's deputy mayor, Elfi Scho-Antwerpes, a Social Democrat, appeared with Turkish leaders at a counterdemonstration across the street. Schramma, she noted, did not show up.
Manfred Rouhs, a leader of Pro Cologne, said the mosque would reinforce the development of a parallel Muslim society, and encourage the subjugation of women, which he said was deeply embedded in Islam.
"This is not a social model that has any place in the middle of Europe," he said.
In this, he has found common ground with Giordano, an 84-year-old Jew who eluded the Nazis in World War II by hiding in a cellar.
Giordano, who dismisses Pro Cologne as a "local chapter of contemporary National Socialists," nonetheless agrees that the mosque is a threat.
"There are people who say this mosque could be a step toward integration," Giordano said in an interview. "I say, `No, no, and three times no.' Mosques are a symbol of a parallel world."
Giordano said Germany needed to face the fact that, after three generations of Turkish immigration, efforts to integrate the Turkish minority had failed.
Immigrants, he said, sought the privileges of membership in German society but refused to bear the obligations.
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