Tue, May 03, 2016 - Page 6 News List

FEATURE: Confronting darkness in Khmer Rouge stronghold

AFP, BNLSNG VJNG, Cambodia

A glass case containing 5,000 human skulls belonging to Khmer Rouge victims is pictured at the Choeung Ek memorial as people gather to mark the 41st anniversary of the start of the regime in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, on April 17.

Photo: Reuters

Standing next to cages that once housed political prisoners, former Khmer Rouge foot soldier Tho Lon gets a surprisingly sympathetic hearing from a clutch of students, despite his work for a regime that wiped out one-quarter of Cambodia’s population.

“All my life, I’ve been cheated by politicians,” he told them in Anlong Veng, a dirt poor town where Pol Pot and his henchmen are still venerated.

“My heart is pained, but I pretend not to be hurt,” he added.

That his complaints get an airing might jar with many Cambodians in a country still piecing together the horrors of the past.

However, his testimony is part of a pioneering reconciliation scheme introducing students to former fighters.

Until now, historians, officials and civil society groups helping Cambodia have struggled to decide on how to approach Anlong Veng, which lies on Cambodia’s remote northern border with Thailand.

It was there and among the surrounding Dangrek Mountains that Pol Pot and senior Khmer Rouge leaders lived on long after their murderous regime was toppled by Vietnam in 1979.

Hidden deep in the jungle, they launched two decades of guerilla attacks that only ended with the region’s final defeat in 1998.

As the students listened intently, Tho Lon explained why he kept on fighting.

“We were living in the mountains,” he said. “We had lost all contact with others, so we believed what we were told, that the Vietnamese would behead us [if we stopped].”

Tho Lon, 57, paid for his loyalty. He lost his sight in one eye and his right arm below the elbow in a mine blast fighting for a Marxist agrarian utopia that never materialized.

The country paid a bigger price — a grisly legacy for Cambodia’s younger generations. Along Veng also hosts the dilapidated grave of Pol Pot, the regime’s “Brother No. 1,” who died about two decades after the Khmer Rouge fell.

“I feel a mixture of excitement and pity,” said Sang Thong, a 25-year-old student from the town of Battambang, as classmates snapped pictures of the grave on their phones. Some of his relatives died under Pol Pot, he said.

“But I don’t come here to take revenge against him, I come here to learn more and understand more deeply about his regime,” he said.

Ly Sok-Kheang, head of the Anlong Veng Peace Program, part of the Documentation Center of Cambodia that researches the country’s genocide, said the meetings “promote historical empathy and understanding.”

However, he admitted it was no easy sell.

When Cambodia’s long civil war finally ended with the fall of Anlong Veng, he said, most of the reconciliation work understandably centered on commemorating the Khmer Rouge’s victims.

The country’s killing fields and notorious detention camps like Tuol Seng have become focal points for those efforts, while Anlong Veng has remained an impoverished backwater.

However, Ly Sok-Kheang said the town should also be remembered, precisely because it was the place where Cambodia finally managed to end decades of violence.

“I think Anlong Veng is the perfect place when we talk about peace in Cambodia,” he said.

Ignoring it, some say, has fed the festering support for Khmer Rouge in the region.

Tho Lon gave his lecture in the grounds of a tumble-down, but once grand villa that was owned by Ta Mok, a senior Khmer Rouge leader nicknamed “The Butcher” for the massacres he perpetrated.

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