Visitors can smell the village of Zhanglidong long before they see it.
More than 100 dump trucks piled high with garbage line the narrow road leading to the village, waiting to empty their loads in a landfill as big as 20 football fields.
In less than five years, the Zhengzhou Comprehensive Waste Treatment Landfill has overwhelmed this otherwise pristine village of about 1,000 people. Peaches and cherries rot on trees, infested with insect life drawn by the smell. Fields lie unharvested, contaminated by toxic muck. Every day, another 91 or so tonnes of garbage arrive from nearby Zhengzhou, a provincial capital of 8 million.
“Life here went from heaven to hell in an instant,” says lifelong resident Wang Xiuhua, swatting away clouds of mosquitoes and flies.
The 78-year-old woman suddenly coughs uncontrollably and says the landfill gases inflame her bronchitis.
As more Chinese ride the nation’s economic boom, a torrent of garbage is one result. Cities are bursting at the seams, and their officials struggle to cope.
The amount of paper, plastic and other garbage has more than tripled in two decades to about 272 million tonnes a year, said Nie Yongfeng (聶永豐), a waste management expert at Beijing’s Tsinghua University.
Americans are still way ahead of China in garbage; a population less than a quarter the size of China’s 1.3 billion generated 230 million tonnes of garbage in 2007, a third of which is recycled or composted, the US Environmental Protection Agency says.
But for China, the problem represents a rapid turnabout from a generation ago, when families, then largely rural and poor, used and reused everything.
“Trash was never complicated before, because we didn’t have supermarkets, we didn’t have fancy packaging and endless things to buy,” Nie said. “Now suddenly, the government is panicking about the mountains of garbage piling up with no place to put it all.”
In Zhanglidong, villagers engage in shouting matches with drivers and sometimes try to bodily block their garbage trucks coming from Zhengzhou, 32km away.
A few families live within 100m of the landfill, separated from it by a fence. These families get 100 yuan (US$15) a month in government compensation.
The dump has poisoned not just the air and ground, but relationships. Villagers say they were never consulted, and suspect their Chinese Communist Party officials were paid to accept the landfill. The villagers say not only were their petitions ignored, but they were warned by the Zhengzhou police to stop protesting or face punishment.
“We villagers were too naive ... we didn’t know what a landfill was,” Li said. “If we had known earlier about all the pollution it would cause, we would had done everything possible to stop the construction process. Now it’s too late.”
Elsewhere, thousands of farmers in Hubei Province clashed with police last year over illegal dumping near their homes. A person filming the clash died after being beaten by police.
Protests in cities are driving trash to the countryside.
Residents in central Beijing swarmed the offices of the Ministry of Environment last year, protesting the stench from a landfill and plans for a new incinerator there. In July, officials scrapped the incinerator plan and closed the landfill four years early.
In eastern Beijing, local officials invested millions of dollars to make the Gao An Tun landfill and incinerator one of a handful in China to meet global health standards. That was after 200,000 residents petitioned for a year about the smell.
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