"I am afraid," one prisoner awaiting interrogation and almost certain death at the hands of the Gestapo scrawled on the walls of his Paris prison cell.
"Never confess," reads another defiant message etched into the plaster nearby.
Heart-rending words transformed by history into epitaphs, these and other messages on long-forgotten walls in the Gestapo's World War II Paris headquarters went on exhibit for the first time ever over the weekend, part of France's annual heritage day.
More than 15,000 sites normally closed to the public, ranging from the national archives to the finance ministry, opened their doors to some 10 million visitors on Saturday and yesterday.
Most of the rooms at 11, rue de Saussaies in the 8th arrondissement were renovated after the French interior ministry took possession of this notorious address where hundreds, if not thousands, of resistance fighters and other hapless victims of the Nazi occupation were tortured and condemned to die.
It was as if France's post-war leaders were eager to turn a page.
But a few prison cells were left untouched, and the plaintiff expressions of fear and foreboding, patriotism and pride, preserved on their walls stand today as a moving testament of Gestapo cruelty and human defiance.
"Frankreich ueber alles" -- "France above all" -- reads on inscription with biting irony, a play on words transforming the title of the German national anthem.
"Believing in yourself gives one the power to resist despite the bathtub and all the rest," reads another, a dark allusion to a preferred technique of torture practiced by the Gestapo.
"Don't talk," commands another, as if to give courage.
Most of the unfortunates interrogated and tortured here were later executed or deported to camps, historians say.
The few rooms that remain from that era have been left intact: the ceiling lamp that still casts a wan, sinister light over the room; the thick metal ring attached to the wall, to which prisoners were chained; the barred window with a view of the interrogation chambers on the other side of the courtyard.
The prisoner graffiti -- written with bits of lead or pencils hidden in shirt collars, or simply carved with any sharp object at hand -- is today protected by glass barriers.
Many of those detained here had no illusions as to their destiny. "Julien. 20 years old. Headed for the post," reads one, referring to the wooden poles to which prisoners were attached before being executed by firing squad.
"Labiscotte. Arrived June 8, 1944. For liberty of for death?" reads another, still daring to hope.
And yet another: "Honored to be condemned by the Bosh. Goodbye forever to France and my loved one," it says, using a common name for Germans during the war.
Some inscriptions are like diary entries: "Marcel is thinking of Simone and Kiki"; "Guillaume loves Marianne"; "I cannot sleep for thinking about my parents and my beloved Louisette."
Other parts of the walls are like bulletin boards, with messages the authors hoped would, somehow, find their way to intended recipients. "Roger: your father, your cousin and Colette's father came through here 24-5-44."
There are even expressions of optimism -- "We will be free by Christmas 1944" -- and philosophical resignation: "Life is beautiful."
United in their misery, one finds the hammer-and-sickle emblem of communism next to Christian prayers. "My God I want, All that you want, Because you want it, As you want it, As much as you want it," reads one.
The walls were also common ground for the barely literate and the highly cultivated, such as Yvette Marie-Jo Wilbort who -- not daring to imagine that she would live to see the war's end -- quoted from memory, for her epitaph, a verse from a poem by Alfred de Vigny.
"Wailing, pleading, crying -- these are the coward's call. Assume your heavy and onerous burden, the one that fate has cast your way. And then, like me, suffer and die in silence."
Wilbort survived, one of the few.
FRAUD ALLEGED: The leader of an opposition alliance made allegations of electoral irregularities and called for a protest in Tirana as European leaders are to meet Albanian Prime Minister Edi Rama’s Socialist Party scored a large victory in parliamentary elections, securing him his fourth term, official results showed late on Tuesday. The Socialist Party won 52.1 percent of the vote on Sunday compared with 34.2 percent for an alliance of opposition parties led by his main rival Sali Berisha, according to results released by the Albanian Central Election Commission. Diaspora votes have yet to be counted, but according to initial results, Rama was also leading there. According to projections, the Socialist Party could have more lawmakers than in 2021 elections. At the time, it won 74 seats in the
A Croatian town has come up with a novel solution to solve the issue of working parents when there are no public childcare spaces available: pay grandparents to do it. Samobor, near the capital, Zagreb, has become the first in the country to run a “Grandmother-Grandfather Service,” which pays 360 euros (US$400) a month per child. The scheme allows grandparents to top up their pension, but the authorities also hope it will boost family ties and tackle social isolation as the population ages. “The benefits are multiple,” Samobor Mayor Petra Skrobot told reporters. “Pensions are rather low and for parents it is sometimes
CONTROVERSY: During the performance of Israel’s entrant Yuval Raphael’s song ‘New Day Will Rise,’ loud whistles were heard and two people tried to get on stage Austria’s JJ yesterday won the Eurovision Song Contest, with his operatic song Wasted Love triumphing at the world’s biggest live music television event. After votes from national juries around Europe and viewers from across the continent and beyond, JJ gave Austria its first victory since bearded drag performer Conchita Wurst’s 2014 triumph. After the nail-biting drama as the votes were revealed running into yesterday morning, Austria finished with 436 points, ahead of Israel — whose participation drew protests — on 357 and Estonia on 356. “Thank you to you, Europe, for making my dreams come true,” 24-year-old countertenor JJ, whose
CANCER: Jose Mujica earned the moniker ‘world’s poorest president’ for giving away much of his salary and living a simple life on his farm, with his wife and dog Tributes poured in on Tuesday from across Latin America following the death of former Uruguayan president Jose “Pepe” Mujica, an ex-guerrilla fighter revered by the left for his humility and progressive politics. He was 89. Mujica, who spent a dozen years behind bars for revolutionary activity, lost his battle against cancer after announcing in January that the disease had spread and he would stop treatment. “With deep sorrow, we announce the passing of our comrade Pepe Mujica. President, activist, guide and leader. We will miss you greatly, old friend,” Uruguayan President Yamandu Orsi wrote on X. “Pepe, eternal,” a cyclist shouted out minutes later,