Sat, Jan 07, 2017 - Page 13 News List

An unfriendly root

Taro does not make life easy for the cook, but with just a little effort it can be turned into a great source of comfort food that is filling and flavorful

By Ian Bartholomew  /  Staff reporter

Braised taro with duck breast makes a great meal with white rice.

Photo: Ian Bartholomew

Taro is one of the great staples of Afro-Caribbean and Pacific island food, but it has made few inroads into the culinary traditions elsewhere. Chinese cuisine makes a number of specific uses of taro, which are deservedly famous, but it is not in any danger of replacing any of the better-known starches such as potato or squash. And taro does not make it easy on itself, because it is an unfriendly ingredient, requiring special care in its preparation.

Taro can range in size from that of an oversized potato to something not much bigger than a golf ball. The latter are making their presence felt in Hualien at the moment, as Jian Township (吉安) is a major producer. This small variety, which I use in the recipe below, has a delicate flavor that showcases other ingredients while providing a unique baseline flavor for the whole dish. Their flesh also varies in color from pale ivory, rather like daikon, through to blotchy purple. In Taiwan, taro is associated almost exclusively with the purple variety, which is often seen chopped in chunks and cooked with sugar as a sweet topping for shaved ice, or made into taro balls (芋圓, a particularly Taiwanese preparation using sweet potato flour) and served in a sweet soup. It also comes in the form of taro cake (芋頭糕), which consists of a dense mix of rice flour, taro, sometimes shiitake mushrooms and sausage and is often served fried in thick slices as part of a traditional southern Chinese breakfast. The cake is a standard item on the Cantonese dim sum menu, but should not be confused with taro dumpling, a pastry encasing seasoned pork that is deep fried to create a flaky, flavorful ball of oral delight.

But in my experience, while widely used in a variety of ways within the Chinese culinary tradition, taro is generally a restaurant food rather than something that makes a regular appearance on the home dining table. I can only assume that this is down to its intimidating nature, as handling a raw taro can easily cause skin irritation, and eating taro that has not been fully cooked can lead to mild poisoning.

The taro, in its raw state is packed with toxins that will cause discomfort and sickness, which is not a really good start for any kind of food that aims at popular appeal. This is all due to the presence of calcium oxalate, which is stashed just beneath the skin of the taro. This will cause irritation to the skin when peeling the root, and if eaten, may make you feel a choking sensation.

The skin irritation is nothing too dire, but expect significant discomfort for 30 minutes to an hour after peeling taro with bare hands. The slimy coating on the tuber is the culprit, so wear gloves or use a kitchen cloth to avoid direct contact. Simple enough, really. And all the nastiness disappears once the taro is cooked, and what you have is something like a super potato, a starchy root packed with nutrients. It is higher in calories than potato, but has up to three times the dietary fiber, and unlike the potato has a low glycemic index, so you don’t get a spike in sugar levels. Taro root is also a great source of potassium, vitamin C, calcium, vitamin E, B vitamins, magnesium, manganese and copper. That said, it is not recommended for those with allergies or inflammations, as it might aggravate these, nor should it be eaten by those with digestive problems. Chinese dietary lore insists that it should not be consumed in conjunction with bananas.

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