Wed, Dec 09, 2009 - Page 13 News List

Zut alors: haute couture takes a hit

The shops are full of opulent clothes but no one is buying. Economic gloom has hit France’s couture houses hard, with Christian Lacroix in administration and forced to slash jobs last week

By Elizabeth Day  /  THE GUARDIAN , PARIS

The era of limitless creative freedom and glorious excess is coming to an end. The world of high fashion now faces having to reshape itself into something altogether less rarefied and more profit-driven in order to survive.

“The time when a designer could sit in a beautiful ivory tower is finished. A designer has to think about profit,” says Rolland.

It remains to be seen whether the 14 other haute couturiers in Paris follow Rolland’s example. But Hash says it is too early to say haute couture is in terminal decline. “I’m not afraid we’ll lose haute couture altogether. There will always be a demand for beautifully hand-made, one-off pieces. It is like gastronomy — you don’t want to eat the best food every day because it’s too heavy, but you do want to have it for a special occasion.”

As if to prove a point, she slides a tray of hand-made French chocolates towards her and pops one in her mouth. Some indulgences, it seems, will never go out of fashion.

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