Wed, May 28, 2008 - Page 13 News List

The measure of the men

Comparing Thom Browne and Tom Ford's suits offers a chance to see how masculinity looks from the very different vantage points of two of America's more talented designers

By Guy Trebay  /  NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE , NEW YORK

To be masculine, according to Ford’s design vision, is to fuse the debonair cut of a Savile Row suit with the swagger of a star from 1970s pornography. “I’m gay, I’m masculine and I’m not at all ashamed or embarrassed at this point to say I feel confident in traditional masculine clothes,” he said. By the time a man has reached his 40s, as Ford and Browne both have, it is probably useful to accept that one is less close to the playhouse than to the grave. “You grow up,” Ford said. Or else you do not.

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