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[RESTAURANT REVIEW] Konaya (古奈屋)

Curry broth and udon noodles make for an incongruous but winning combination at Konaya. PHOTO: HO YI, TAIPEI TIMES

Located across the street from Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (國父紀念館), Konaya tempts diners with a menu devoted to one specialty and one specialty only - a curry udon soup that brought fame to the chain's first Tokyo restaurant some 15 years ago and offers a novel experience in a city that's full of all manner of Japanese restaurants. Curry and udon, thick, white Japanese noodles made from wheat flour, may sound like worlds apart, but they make for a winning combination here.

The first branch of the Japanese chain to be opened in Taiwan, Konaya Taipei offers a quasi Tokyo ambiance and taste. The interior of the restaurant is painted in black, white and shades of brown, and exudes a cozy, clean feel. Customers can see chefs and wait staff clad in white uniforms and black scarves preparing food in the spotless kitchen. Everything is so clean that if there were a hygiene competition among the city's restaurants, Konaya looks like it could win.

Konaya's signature dish is its celebrated curry udon and the Taipei branch strictly follows instructions from the headquarters in Tokyo as to how to prepare the soup. Twenty-two kinds of fruits and spices are thrown into a pot and left to simmer for three days. The end result is served hot with specially made udon noodles cooked slightly al dente.

Konaya (古奈屋) Address: 306, Guangfu S Rd, Taipei City (台北市光復南路306號) Telephone: (02) 2751-3568 Open: 11:30am to 9:30pm Average meal: NT$400 Details: Menu in Chinese, English and Japanese; credit cards accepted On the Net: www.konaya.com.tw

The curry udon is served with set meals (NT$310 to NT$390, plus 10 percent service charge). These include a salad, one half-raw poached egg, a small plate of brown rice, and dessert. The curry udon comes with one of the following toppings: beef, deep-fried shrimp, chicken, pork, or oysters. Side dishes, including the deep-fried rice cake (NT$25) and deep-fried banana (NT$35), can also take a dip in the soup.

I have visited the restaurant twice and found the deep-fried shrimp irresistible when soaked in Konaya's signature curry sauce. Friends have commented favorably on the vegetable udon bowl.

The service at Konaya is attentive and worth the 10-percent charge. Before novice diners tuck into their bowls, wait staff help them tie paper bibs to prevent splashes of the curried broth from staining their clothes. Customers are also instructed on how to ensure a more enjoyable feast. The poached egg, for example, goes into the curry first to make it even more deliciously creamy. Brown rice should be added last to add a different layer of texture. 
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