In the vicinity of Jhongjhen Rd (中正路), Sindian City (新店市), close to the Huanhe Expressway (環河快速道路), there once stood a cluster of juan cun (眷村), or veteran's villages, where Mainlanders from all parts of China made the neighborhood a hub of the country's various culinary traditions. Cement apartment buildings now stand on the site where this outpost of the Mainlander community once stood, but the culinary legacy of northern Chinese food at bargain prices continues to thrive. One such popular location is the Beiping Huatai Restaurant.
I visited the restaurant with a regular who has been eating there for many years. His opinion was that the restaurant had lost something of its authenticity since the business had been passed down from father to son, but it remains popular and on weekends is certain to be packed with locals. Popular favorites such as Chinese meat pies (餡餅) are always sold out before closing time.
The menu offers hearty northern Chinese dishes such as moo-shu pork and fried knife-cut noodles (木須炒刀削麵, NT$90), pork and vegetable steamed dumplings (蒸餃, NT$75) and scallion pancakes (蔥油餅, NT$25), which are all popular with habitues. Millet congee (小米粥) is another perennial favorite that either accompanies the savory meat pies or can be eaten with sugar.
PHOTO: HO YI, TAIPEI TIMES
Besides the northern staples of dumplings and noodles made from wheat, other dishes such as shredded pork stir-fried in sweet bean sauce (京醬肉絲, NT$145), vegetables covered with an omelet (合菜代瑁, NT$135) and ma-po tofu (麻婆豆腐, NT$120) add diversity to the menu. These should probably be avoided in favor of what the restaurant does best.
Our anticipation of traditional Chinese food, despite the wait in line, was sadly disappointing. Like many old eateries of its kind, the interior is plain and the service is loud and direct, giving the restaurant a homely charm.
Beiping Huatai Restaurant is not a place for sophisticated dining, but if you want local ambiance and food at reasonable prices, this establishment, which produces a hearty meal delivered by a passable kitchen and continues to thrive on a reputation from a bygone era, is certainly a good option.
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