The travel publicity of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam refers to the country as a destination for the new millennium. For once this piece of self-promotion is spot on. Whereas Thailand and Bali have been offering tropical vacations -- beach-side relaxation with some historical sights -- for more than two decades, Vietnam is a newcomer with what is in effect the same deal. And in both its unwearied attitude toward its new visitors and its sheer value for the money, this newness on the scene shows and scores highly.
Formerly named Saigon, meaning "gift to the foreigner," Ho Chi Minh City was built by the French as their imperial capital in what they called Indochina. What is remarkable is that so little has changed since those days. The city suffered less damage in the Vietnam War than might be supposed, and since the Communist takeover in 1975 not much has been altered.
As a result you have some of that laid-back era with the wide boulevards, resplendent public buildings and hotels, and low pollution levels, now coexisting with several affluent new commercial facades adorning the central area. The city center now has the best of two worlds: old-fashioned charm and modern glitter with little of the concrete-block ugliness of the decades that lay between them.
Traditional marvels include the extraordinary post office with its vaulted roof and exotic murals, the red-brick cathedral, and old colonial hotels such as the Continental (central to Graham Greene's novel The Quiet American), the Rex, and the riverside Majestic. Among the shining modern constructions are the Hong Kong Bank and Caravelle Hotel towers. At night much of this central area is floodlit, giving an impression, reinforced by the many pavement cafes, of central Paris.
It wasn't for nothing that Ho Chi Minh City was dubbed the "Paris of the East." Shanghai shared the same flattering moniker, but whereas much of traditional Shanghai has fallen victim to the constructor's jackhammer, old Ho Chi Minh City is still lying back perfecting its tan in the tropical sunshine.
And there are tourists everywhere. Swedes, Britons, French and Japanese are especially common, and whether it's young backpackers or their more affluent seniors, Ho Chi Minh City is currently awash with international visitors. It's a tourist destination whose time has come.
There's no shortage of places to stay. Indeed, the problem is where to choose, so spacious is even the cheapest accommodation and so magnificent a wide range of the more up-market places. Incidentally, take US dollars with you. Exchange rates for Taiwan dollars are never displayed, and US cash is invariably accepted as an alternative to the Vietnamese dong. Take plenty of US$1 bills.
The backpacker area of Pham Ngu Lao is very close to the city center. It's Ho Chi Minh City's equivalent of Bangkok's Khaosarn Road, but more congenial and a much better value. The area may be only a handful of streets based around Duong De Tham, but it offers a huge range of cheap and spacious hotels, typically with rooms at between US$10 and US$15 a night. There's little inducement to spend more when such cleanliness and friendliness is so readily available. At US$12 per night, the Chau Long Hotel (tel 848-8369667) with air-conditioned rooms, multi-channel TV and bathrooms with hot water is as good as any. But there are many similar places to choose from.
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