Scarcely had fashion decreed bourgeois chic the order of the day when a backlash set in. That reaction, as timely as it is unruly, arrives in the unlikely guise of grunge. That much maligned Seattle-born style, popularized by rock legends like Nirvana, has reared its head once more in the shape of lumberjack shirts, jaunty kilts, beat-up sweat shirts, bleached-out jeans and all manner of leggings in worker-bee stripes.
Its arrival coincides with the advent of neo-grunge rockers, and in its earliest incarnations and it has already filtered into fashion's mainstream. Stores like Hot Topic and American Eagle Outfitters chase after teenagers' dollars with work shirts and jeans, meant to be piled on chaotically in the manner of Kurt Cobain, the iconic lead singer of Nirvana. But new interpretations of the style have surfaced in more rarefied quarters as well.
Grunge has been a recurrent theme in fashion since the early 1990s, when rockers like Cobain transformed kilts, moth-eaten sweaters and lumberjack plaids into the insignia of yuppie revolt. "Grunge returns whenever fashion is reacting against a more preppy or establishment look," said Andrew Bolton, associate curator of the Costume Institute at the Met. "It's very much an anti-fashion statement, one that breaks down the notions of what goes with what."
If Cobain thought nothing of pulling a tattered baby-doll dress over jeans, combining a Pendleton shirt with a kilt, or wrapping said shirt at his hips like a skirt, designers are taking a tidier route. Thus Marc Jacobs, who notoriously created a grunge collection for Perry Ellis a decade ago, reintroduced elements of the look in his secondary line. The collection, shown this month during Fashion Week, was built on an amalgam of rainbow-colored layers, a sprightly version of the style that was once embraced by disaffected high schoolers and the protagonists of Wayne's World.
Like Jacobs, Jean Touitou, the designer for APC, gave his grunge-inspired fall collection a playful air. Evocatively christened Smells like Seattle, it is full of lumberjack shirts in plaid polyester, beefy cardigans, striped leggings and kilts. Touitou's decision to resurrect the look was a reaction to "all that cheap glamor," he said, referring to the ubiquity of Manolo-shod editors and their gin-sipping dates posturing archly in the lobby of the Mercer Hotel in SoHo. "I think the world needs a blitzkrieg answer to all that," he said.
Touitou would likely find compatriots at Utilikilts, a Seattle store and Web site that sells kilts to men from all walks of life, including, lately, a new generation of Cobain wannabes. The look is no less alluring to the Manhattan adolescents now snapping up corduroy jackets with fake fur trim, or plaid flannel shirts, to be layered two at a time over bleached or weathered jeans, at Marsha D.D. on the Upper East Side. "You would think that grunge is an unconscious influence because these kids are too young to remember its source," said Marsha Drogin Dayan, the store's owner. "But now I'm not so sure."
It is doubtful, though, that the movement's latest subscribers have more than a nodding acquaintance with its counterculture roots. "Today the style is romanticized," Bolton said. "It's more about nostalgia than politics."
Anthony Dickey stared down his audience at the Hue-Man bookstore in Harlem last week, unfazed by a restive shuffling in the ranks. Dickey, a hairstylist known to clients simply as Dickey, is the author of "Hair Rules!" a book for, as he puts it, those with "hair that's anything but straight." Dickey is a proponent of a wholesome natural look, enhanced though it may be by a stylist's skills. Some listeners had failed to heed his advice.
One woman, the victim of overzealous processing, lamented, "I don't even know what my hair is anymore." Dickey responded with the breezy confidence of an author whose book, still in its first printing, is selling in the tens of thousands. "Pay no attention to the magazines," he told her, waving his volume in her direction. "Just show this to your hairdresser.
Taking in the message, Cassie Parker, a listener in her 40s, rolled her eyes. "When you get to a certain age, you don't have time for hairdressers," she snapped. "You don't want to relax your hair, but you can't go nappy either. Where is the medium?" She is still waiting for her reply.
Sept.16 to Sept. 22 The “anti-communist train” with then-president Chiang Kai-shek’s (蔣介石) face plastered on the engine puffed along the “sugar railway” (糖業鐵路) in May 1955, drawing enthusiastic crowds at 103 stops covering nearly 1,200km. An estimated 1.58 million spectators were treated to propaganda films, plays and received free sugar products. By this time, the state-run Taiwan Sugar Corporation (台糖, Taisugar) had managed to connect the previously separate east-west lines established by Japanese-era sugar factories, allowing the anti-communist train to travel easily from Taichung to Pingtung’s Donggang Township (東港). Last Sunday’s feature (Taiwan in Time: The sugar express) covered the inauguration of the
The corruption cases surrounding former Taipei Mayor and Taiwan People’s Party (TPP) head Ko Wen-je (柯文哲) are just one item in the endless cycle of noise and fuss obscuring Taiwan’s deep and urgent structural and social problems. Even the case itself, as James Baron observed in an excellent piece at the Diplomat last week, is only one manifestation of the greater problem of deep-rooted corruption in land development. Last week the government announced a program to permit 25,000 foreign university students, primarily from the Philippines, Indonesia and Malaysia, to work in Taiwan after graduation for 2-4 years. That number is a
This year’s Michelin Gourmand Bib sported 16 new entries in the 126-strong Taiwan directory. The fight for the best braised pork rice and the crispiest scallion pancake painstakingly continued, but what stood out in the lineup this year? Pang Taqueria (胖塔可利亞); Taiwan’s first Michelin-recommended Mexican restaurant. Chef Charles Chen (陳治宇) is a self-confessed Americophile, earning his chef whites at a fine-dining Latin-American fusion restaurant. But what makes this Xinyi (信義) spot stand head and shoulders above Taipei’s existing Mexican offerings? The authenticity. The produce. The care. AUTHENTIC EATS In my time on the island, I have caved too many times to
In a stark demonstration of how award-winning breakthroughs can come from the most unlikely directions, researchers have won an Ig Nobel prize for discovering that mammals can breathe through their anuses. After a series of tests on mice, rats and pigs, Japanese scientists found the animals absorb oxygen delivered through the rectum, work that underpins a clinical trial to see whether the procedure can treat respiratory failure. The team is among 10 recognized in this year’s Ig Nobel awards (see below for more), the irreverent accolades given for achievements that “first make people laugh, and then make them think.” They are not