Fri, Nov 24, 2000 - Page 10 News List

Restaurants of the week

This week we visit three Vietnamese restaurants.

By Ian Bartholomew  /  STAFF REPORTER

The "combo pho" is one of Pho Hoa's best dishes.

PHOTO: IAN BARTHOLOMEW

Pho Hoa ("和"牛肉粉)

43, Lane 190, Sec. 1, Tunhua S. Rd., Taipei (北市敦化南路1段43號), tel: (02)2751-5578 129, Tingchou Rd., Taipei (北市汀洲路129號), tel: (02) 2365-8222 Open: 10am-10pm. Average meal: NT$200. English menu. Credit cards not accepted.

A well known chain in the US and Canada, Pho Hoa has brought its winning recipe for this Vietnamese staple to Taiwan. Bringing another noodle shop to Taipei might seem strange, given the strong presence of indigenous noodle outlets, but the success of Pho Hoa proves there is still plenty of room in town for another reliable noodle store.

"We've been around for two years now," Pho Hoa manager Tang Tsong-yao (湯宗堯) said, and although the restaurant only serves one main dish -- albeit in a large variety of presentations -- the diner-like atmosphere has helped build a solid customer base of local and foreign customers.

Pho Hua's bowl of pho (flat rice noodles) can have a variety of meats, including brisket, tendon, meat balls, lean beef and tripe among others. Diners can even select between fatty and non-fatty broth. All this puts the diner firmly in control. "The food is low-cal, and is not cooked in brown gravy, so it is not as salty," said Tang.

These factors, which may reflect the store's US influence, apparently also has considerable appeal with Taipei diners. "Many people now prefer blander flavors," he said.

If you want to try the complete pho experience, try the beef combo pho, which has a little bit of everything in it. The light flavorful stock has a richness and variety of taste that is complemented by the textures of different cuts of meat.

"The flavor package [for the soup] is imported, as is the meat and the noodles," Tang said. "Preparation is also completely standardized, so we are not at the mercy of temperamental chefs."

In addition, Pho Hoa also offers fried spring rolls and fish cakes, which make a pleasant complement to a bowl of pho. The simple menu and setting put the focus firmly on enjoying a good, simple meal -- all at a very reasonable price.

Mei-Kung Thai & Vietnam Restaurant (湄河餐廳)

157-3 Yenchi St., Taipei (延吉街157號之3) tel: (02) 2752-3051 Open: 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-midnight. Average meal: NT$1,000. English menu. Credit cards accepted.

Given the proximity of Vietnam and Thailand and the similarity in much of their cuisine, it is no surprise that the countries' foods are often served together. But there are some differences between Vietnamese pho noodles and their Thai cousin.

"Vietnamese pho is always served in beef broth and will almost always be served with onions," said David Lim (林明定). "In the Thai variety, the stock is made from a mixture of meats and onions are never used." Mei-kung gives you the opportunity to try both varieties. Mei-kung uses freshly made pho which Lim says is made especially for Thai and Vietnamese restaurants. "It is more firm and chewy than Chinese ban-tiao noodles," Lim said. Dried pho is also imported from Thailand.

In addition to Vietnamese pho and bun noodles, Vietnamese cuisine also provides some of the restaurants small dishes such as fish cakes and the perennial favorite: sugarcane shrimp.

"Vietnamese food is more simple," Lim said. This is one of the reasons that the restaurant has moved toward a predominance of Thai dishes, "which have more variety and offer more potential for banquet dishes."

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