The model adjusts her clothing, stares at the camera with a hint of a smile, holds her head high and the photographer starts snapping.
However, at this photoshoot on the Asian side of Istanbul, the models, impeccably made up, sport no body-hugging Western styles.
All wear headscarves and loose fitting outfits in a shoot for one of the industry’s fast growing sectors — modest, but trendy Islamic fashion.
Photo: AFP
Istanbul is positioning itself to be a hub in this nascent industry, which according to the Dubai-based Islamic Fashion and Design Council could be worth almost US$500 billion within decades.
Modanisa, a Turkish online Muslim clothing retailer, started small in 2011 and today is one of the biggest names in the market. It offers more than 30,000 products — from casual tunics to shiny evening wear to sports gear, shoes and accessories — from 300 brands and ships to 75 countries.
The firm calls itself the “first online fashion and shopping Web site for women who embrace a modest dressing style.” Modanisa chief executive Kerim Ture said that in years past there was so little choice that a religiously conservative young woman had no option but to wear the same clothes as her mother.
Photo: AFP
“If that was happening in a country [Turkey] where 99 percent of its population is Muslim, we wondered how the situation was around the world,” he added. “That’s how we’ve started our worldwide Web business.”
BURQINI BAN
Ture was surprised by this summer’s furor in strictly secular France over whether Muslim women had the right to wear the Burqini swimsuit, which covers all but the hands, feet and face.
French courts ultimately ruled that a Burqini ban by about 30 towns was “clearly illegal” and a violation of fundamental rights.
For Ture, the Burqini is not a symbol, but a choice.
“I barely understand how a country, one of whose main pillars is freedom, can oppose the Muslim swimsuit,” he said.
His firm’s catalogue offers a range of “fully closed swimsuits” starting at 40 euros (US$45), and, ironically, its Burqini sales jumped during the debate by 15 to 20 percent to France and 30 percent to the Netherlands.
In May, Istanbul hosted its first conservative fashion week at the historic Haydarpasa train station to showcase this rapidly growing market. It was organized by Franka Soeria from Indonesia, another center for Islamic clothing.
As a global consultant on modest fashion trends, Soeria decided three-and-a-half years ago to move to Istanbul — whose position straddling Europe and Asia, some say, gives it an edge.
The point of offering stylish modest clothing was not to tell people to cover up, but to show that “we are also the same as you ... we don’t want to be excluded, we don’t want to look different,” she said.
“We are showing that, hey, I am modest, I like to cover. I also like fashion. This is just my style. Just accept,” she said.
Osman Ozdemir, a Turkish designer of modest fashion, is the inhouse designer for Modanisa, but is now also working for several other firms.
“I believe Istanbul will be trend-setting on Islamic fashion,” he said. “Even high-profile and luxury brands are getting into the act.”
At the start of the year, legendary Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana launched its first line of hijab and abaya — some extravagantly patterned — for Muslim customers in the Middle East.
Though Turkey is a constitutionally secular state, the Islamic-rooted ruling Justice and Development Party, cofounded by Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan, has advocated removing restrictions on the Muslim headscarf since it came to power in 2002.
In 2013, Turkey lifted a long-standing ban on wearing the hijab in state institutions. Last month, the government for the first time allowed policewomen to wear the headscarf under their official caps or berets.
In the conservative Fatih quarter of Istanbul, Islamic fashion stores line the streets, which are awash with billboards advertising modest styles.
“I covered my head three years ago. I didn’t want to dress up like my mother because in the past the clothes headscarf-wearing women could wear were limited,” 16-year-old shopper Seyma said. “Now I can easily find whatever I look for.”
Tourists from the Middle East are also coming to shop in Istanbul.
“I find many things: casual dresses, trousers, T-shirts and many pieces,” said Dalia, a young woman from Saudi Arabia. “I come without anything and buy from here.”
BACKLASH
Not all Turkish Muslims like the trend and see fashion as a Western tool aimed at turning Muslim women into consumer-oriented spenders.
“Islam seeks to form a modest Muslim identity, encouraging need-oriented consumption,” said Hulya Sekerci, an activist with the Free Thought and Education Rights Association, Ozgur-Der.
“On the contrary, fashion is a vicious circle encouraging excessive consumption. That’s why we are against fashion and fashion shows,” she said.
Hakan Yildiz, professor of political science at Istanbul’s Bosphorus University, said Islamic fashion stores were clearly proliferating in Turkey.
However, “we need at least a generation to see how it will evolve,” he said, adding that it would need “at least 20 years more to see if a Versace of Islam will emerge.”
Among the rows of vibrators, rubber torsos and leather harnesses at a Chinese sex toys exhibition in Shanghai this weekend, the beginnings of an artificial intelligence (AI)-driven shift in the industry quietly pulsed. China manufactures about 70 percent of the world’s sex toys, most of it the “hardware” on display at the fair — whether that be technicolor tentacled dildos or hyper-realistic personalized silicone dolls. Yet smart toys have been rising in popularity for some time. Many major European and US brands already offer tech-enhanced products that can enable long-distance love, monitor well-being and even bring people one step closer to
Malaysia’s leader yesterday announced plans to build a massive semiconductor design park, aiming to boost the Southeast Asian nation’s role in the global chip industry. A prominent player in the semiconductor industry for decades, Malaysia accounts for an estimated 13 percent of global back-end manufacturing, according to German tech giant Bosch. Now it wants to go beyond production and emerge as a chip design powerhouse too, Malaysian Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim said. “I am pleased to announce the largest IC (integrated circuit) Design Park in Southeast Asia, that will house world-class anchor tenants and collaborate with global companies such as Arm [Holdings PLC],”
TRANSFORMATION: Taiwan is now home to the largest Google hardware research and development center outside of the US, thanks to the nation’s economic policies President Tsai Ing-wen (蔡英文) yesterday attended an event marking the opening of Google’s second hardware research and development (R&D) office in Taiwan, which was held at New Taipei City’s Banciao District (板橋). This signals Taiwan’s transformation into the world’s largest Google hardware research and development center outside of the US, validating the nation’s economic policy in the past eight years, she said. The “five plus two” innovative industries policy, “six core strategic industries” initiative and infrastructure projects have grown the national industry and established resilient supply chains that withstood the COVID-19 pandemic, Tsai said. Taiwan has improved investment conditions of the domestic economy
MAJOR BENEFICIARY: The company benefits from TSMC’s advanced packaging scarcity, given robust demand for Nvidia AI chips, analysts said ASE Technology Holding Co (ASE, 日月光投控), the world’s biggest chip packaging and testing service provider, yesterday said it is raising its equipment capital expenditure budget by 10 percent this year to expand leading-edge and advanced packing and testing capacity amid strong artificial intelligence (AI) and high-performance computing chip demand. This is on top of the 40 to 50 percent annual increase in its capital spending budget to more than the US$1.7 billion to announced in February. About half of the equipment capital expenditure would be spent on leading-edge and advanced packaging and testing technology, the company said. ASE is considered by analysts