Women are increasingly making their mark in men’s fashion, breaking through the “fabric ceiling” that has seen the industry dominated by men and attracted by a sector where some of the most radical changes are taking place.
Fashion has long been an industry focused predominantly on women, but run by men, with a 2019 study by PricewaterhouseCoopers showing just 12.5 percent of fashion houses had female bosses.
While change is slow at the top, the latest men’s fashion week in Paris that wrapped up on Sunday highlighted the number of exciting female designers choosing to focus on menswear.
Photo: AFP
Grace Wales Bonner’s opening night show in a Place Vendome hotel — her first physical event in Paris — was one of the hottest tickets. Known for literary references and highlighting black and minority artists, it was clear why she is considered a frontrunner to replace the late Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton.
“I went into menswear because I thought there’s a lot more room for expression,” she told reportesr. “It feels like it’s not overdeveloped — [menswear] can be quite conservative at times.”
It was well-received, with Bloomingdale’s men’s director Justin Berkowitz praising her “sharp tailoring ... with charming details for a spot-on, personal collection.”
Bode, meanwhile, returned to Paris for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic, with a vintage collection inspired by rural US and her mother’s family. Known for handcrafted clothes, often made from recycled materials, she was named menswear designer of the year at the CFDA Awards last year.
There were also shows from France’s Marine Serre, who has disrupted the industry with her determined adherence to sustainability, and Britain’s Bianca Saunders, who told reporters that she was attracted to menswear because it offered “a different canvas where I could be very explorative.”
Wales Bonner, Bode, Serre and Saunders are all in their early 30s, but more experienced designers like Gabriela Hearst and Isabel Marant have also launched menswear lines in recent years as the sector hots up.
“Men chase an ideal — today I want to feel like Marlon Brando so I throw on a leather jacket,” said Hermes shoe designer Pierre Hardy, a longtime collaborator of Veronique Nichanian, who has headed menswear at the label for 35 years.
“Women come with fewer cliches, with an external and more neutral perspective,” he told reporters.
“They have an eye that is more centered on reality, with a bit of distance and less fantasy,” said Alice Feillard, menswear buying director at Paris department store Galeries Lafayette.
A new crop is hot on their heels — among them France’s Jeanne Friot, who presented a flamboyant, bright-red collection as part of a newcomer’s showcase in Paris.
“As a woman designer and a lesbian, I have a different perspective on men and fashion,” said Friot, whose most popular piece is an upcycled pair of jeans made from feathers.
“Men need to have more options in their wardrobe than just black, white and grey — why not some pieces that are more feminine and fun,” she said.
MONEY MATTERS: Xi was to highlight projects such as a new high-speed railway between Belgrade and Budapest, as Serbia is entirely open to Chinese trade and investment Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic yesterday said that “Taiwan is China” as he made a speech welcoming Chinese President Xi Jinping (習近平) to Belgrade, state broadcaster Radio Television of Serbia (RTS) said. “We have a clear and simple position regarding Chinese territorial integrity,” he told a crowd outside the government offices while Xi applauded him. “Yes, Taiwan is China.” Xi landed in Belgrade on Tuesday night on the second leg of his European tour, and was greeted by Vucic and most government ministers. Xi had just completed a two-day trip to France, where he held talks with French President Emmanuel Macron as the
With the midday sun blazing, an experimental orange and white F-16 fighter jet launched with a familiar roar that is a hallmark of US airpower, but the aerial combat that followed was unlike any other: This F-16 was controlled by artificial intelligence (AI), not a human pilot, and riding in the front seat was US Secretary of the Air Force Frank Kendall. AI marks one of the biggest advances in military aviation since the introduction of stealth in the early 1990s, and the US Air Force has aggressively leaned in. Even though the technology is not fully developed, the service is planning
INTERNATIONAL PROBE: Australian and US authorities were helping coordinate the investigation of the case, which follows the 2015 murder of Australian surfers in Mexico Three bodies were found in Mexico’s Baja California state, the FBI said on Friday, days after two Australians and an American went missing during a surfing trip in an area hit by cartel violence. Authorities used a pulley system to hoist what appeared to be lifeless bodies covered in mud from a shaft on a cliff high above the Pacific. “We confirm there were three individuals found deceased in Santo Tomas, Baja California,” a statement from the FBI’s office in San Diego, California, said without providing the identities of the victims. Australian brothers Jake and Callum Robinson and their American friend Jack Carter
CUSTOMS DUTIES: France’s cognac industry was closely watching the talks, fearing that an anti-dumping investigation opened by China is retaliation for trade tensions French President Emmanuel Macron yesterday hosted Chinese President Xi Jinping (習近平) at one of his beloved childhood haunts in the Pyrenees, seeking to press a message to Beijing not to support Russia’s war against Ukraine and to accept fairer trade. The first day of Xi’s state visit to France, his first to Europe since 2019, saw respectful, but sometimes robust exchanges between the two men during a succession of talks on Monday. Macron, joined initially by EU Commission President Ursula von der Leyen, urged Xi not to allow the export of any technology that could be used by Russia in its invasion