Louis Vuitton’s (LV) first-ever US fashion show turned into a somber yet whimsical tribute to groundbreaking designer Virgil Abloh days after his death.
The Miami menswear event, an unofficial kickoff to the prestigious Art Basel fair, had been in the works for months.
Guests were ferried by yachts to the star-studded affair held on an island.
Photo: EPA-EFE
Celebrity attendees — including Kim Kardashian West and her daughter North; Ye, the rapper formerly known as Kanye West; model Bella Hadid; Joe Jonas; Maluma; and Pharrell — arrived in sleek LV-monogrammed silver speedboats.
Kid Cudi and Erykah Badu performed at an after-party.
“Hey Virgil,” she yelled at the start of her set, later saying “we want to see you fly.”
Abloh, who died on Sunday after a lengthy battle with cancer, was known for pushing boundaries as the head of the legendary French fashion house, thanks to his childlike curiosity and an eagerness to instill a sense of playfulness.
His groundbreaking fusions of streetwear and high couture made him one of the most celebrated tastemakers.
A focal point of the show was a giant, red LV-monogrammed hot-air balloon that puffed flames as Abloh’s voice was heard in the background.
Brand CEO Michael Burke said that Abloh’s wife and family wanted the show to go on.
He had just spoken to the young designer on Saturday night, describing the inspiration for the show as a coming of age of sorts because “inspiring and empowering younger generations defined who he was.”
“We had imagined it all and he was distraught not to be here in person,” Burke said.
Models walked the meandering runway, showcasing the collection that featured everything from neon-colored amphibian, aqua-gear looks with colorful fish backpacks to letterman-style school sweaters and snow bunny looks with furry boots.
There was a sleek matte-black ensemble that resembled SWAT gear, military style suits in olive with belted coats and even brightly colored southern-belle-style hoop skirts. Prints included tie-dye hues and the iconic checkered logo redone in new colored patterns.
While the clothes were like Abloh — playful, colorful and vibrant — the mood was somber.
During and after the show, many in the audience wiped away tears, standing to hug each other or offer a pat of comfort. The sparse clapping at the end was awkward.
Unlike most shows, no one got up to mingle or talk, but instead sat in a heavy silence, while the designer’s traditional finale bow was not coming and never would again.
As the fireworks lit up the skyline in Miami, the audience seemed painfully aware of Abloh’s absence.
Instead, the show circled back to the bold hot-air balloon as the designer’s voice said: “Life is short... You can’t waste even a day subscribing to what someone thinks you can do versus knowing what you can do” — a sort of anthem that a generation of young fans have rallied behind.
In 2018, Abloh became the first black man to serve as Louis Vuitton’s director of men’s wear in the French design house’s storied history.
He grew up outside of Chicago, Illinois, with his first-generation Ghanaian-American seamstress mother teaching him to sew.
New York stylist Memsor Kamarake, who saw Abloh’s first show in Paris, flew in specifically for the final tribute, saying through tears after the fireworks: “I felt like now I can finally grieve him.”
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