Thu, Jun 25, 2020 page4

• Korean War Anniversary: Wartime legacies line Korean DMZ

  REMNANTS: The concrete shell of the headquarters for the North’s ruling Workers’ Party of Korea still stands in South Korea, along with the summer home of Kim Il-sung

  • AFP, GOSEONG, South Korea
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  From North Korean party headquarters to holiday homes and cemeteries, 70 years after the Korean War began its legacies line the demilitarized zone (DMZ) that marks where the fighting came to a standstill.

  A few kilometers from the DMZ’s eastern end, a small stone villa stands on a cliff overlooking the white sands of Hwajinpo Beach in Goseong County, South Korea.

  It lay in the North’s territory before the outbreak of war, when it was the summer home of its founder Kim Il-sung, grandfather of North Korean leader Kim Jong-un.

  

  Soldiers walk past the remains of the Workers’ Party of North Korea headquarters, built in 1946, in Cheorwon County, South Korea, on Tuesday last week.

  Photo: AFP

  Next to the stony steps leading up to the villa — now a museum — is a reprint of a faded 1948 black-and-white photograph showing five children, among them Kim Jong-un’s father and predecessor Kim Jong-il.

  Goseong, along with a swathe of what is now South Korea’s Gangwon Province, is north of the 38th parallel line of latitude where the US and Soviet Union divided the peninsula after Japan’s surrender ended World War II and its colonial rule over Korea.

  Surrounded by mountain ridges, the peaceful farming village of Haean was the site of some of the most fierce and bloody battles of the war, nicknamed the “Punchbowl” by a US war correspondent who said the area resembled a cocktail glass.

  “The South Korean and UN forces had to cross our village in order to advance northwards,” said Lee Byeong-deuk, a tour guide and villager.

  Pointing to a faint North Korean mountain top in the distance, Lee, who was born and grew up in Haean, said that his hometown was also used for propaganda: A 1970s government housing project combined every two homes into one to make them look larger — all of them facing north.

  Cheorwon County, 60km north of the 38th parallel, also changed hands after the 1950-1953 conflict ended with an armistice.

  On a nearly empty road leading to a military checkpoint stands the concrete shell of a three-story building — once the regional headquarters for the North’s ruling Workers’ Party of Korea.

  “Where we are standing now used to be North Korea,” tour guide Gim Yong-sun said.

  Before the war, she said, the building was a site for questioning and torturing those accused of anti-communist activities.

  Hundreds of North Korean troops who never made it home lie in a field outside Paju, the only cemetery in the South for enemy combatants.

  Many of the graves hold multiple remains, their simple granite markers saying only the number of they contain, while just a few are named.

  At Panmunjom, the truce village in the DMZ with its emblematic blue huts, their successors on both sides come face-to-face.

  In the past few years it has seen a series of summits bringing together Kim Jong-un, South Korean President Moon Jae-in and US President Donald Trump.

  Yet the armistice has never been replaced by a peace treaty, leaving the peninsula technically still at war, and inter-Korean relations are now in a deep freeze with nuclear negotiations between Pyongyang and Washington at a deadlock.

  At the western end of the DMZ, barbed wire fences surround the border island of Gyodong, less than 5km from North Korea.

  Barber Ji Gwang-sik was 13 when he fled Yonpek, his North Korean hometown, at the height of the conflict.

  It took “less than 30 minutes” for his family to travel across on a wooden boat, Ji said, but for nearly 70 years he has been unable to return.

  Now 82, he still waits for the day he can return.

  “Only those who had the same experience understand the pain,” he said.
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