From North Korean party headquarters to holiday homes and cemeteries, 70 years after the Korean War began its legacies line the demilitarized zone (DMZ) that marks where the fighting came to a standstill.
A few kilometers from the DMZ’s eastern end, a small stone villa stands on a cliff overlooking the white sands of Hwajinpo Beach in Goseong County, South Korea.
It lay in the North’s territory before the outbreak of war, when it was the summer home of its founder Kim Il-sung, grandfather of North Korean leader Kim Jong-un.
Photo: AFP
Next to the stony steps leading up to the villa — now a museum — is a reprint of a faded 1948 black-and-white photograph showing five children, among them Kim Jong-un’s father and predecessor Kim Jong-il.
Goseong, along with a swathe of what is now South Korea’s Gangwon Province, is north of the 38th parallel line of latitude where the US and Soviet Union divided the peninsula after Japan’s surrender ended World War II and its colonial rule over Korea.
Surrounded by mountain ridges, the peaceful farming village of Haean was the site of some of the most fierce and bloody battles of the war, nicknamed the “Punchbowl” by a US war correspondent who said the area resembled a cocktail glass.
“The South Korean and UN forces had to cross our village in order to advance northwards,” said Lee Byeong-deuk, a tour guide and villager.
Pointing to a faint North Korean mountain top in the distance, Lee, who was born and grew up in Haean, said that his hometown was also used for propaganda: A 1970s government housing project combined every two homes into one to make them look larger — all of them facing north.
Cheorwon County, 60km north of the 38th parallel, also changed hands after the 1950-1953 conflict ended with an armistice.
On a nearly empty road leading to a military checkpoint stands the concrete shell of a three-story building — once the regional headquarters for the North’s ruling Workers’ Party of Korea.
“Where we are standing now used to be North Korea,” tour guide Gim Yong-sun said.
Before the war, she said, the building was a site for questioning and torturing those accused of anti-communist activities.
Hundreds of North Korean troops who never made it home lie in a field outside Paju, the only cemetery in the South for enemy combatants.
Many of the graves hold multiple remains, their simple granite markers saying only the number of they contain, while just a few are named.
At Panmunjom, the truce village in the DMZ with its emblematic blue huts, their successors on both sides come face-to-face.
In the past few years it has seen a series of summits bringing together Kim Jong-un, South Korean President Moon Jae-in and US President Donald Trump.
Yet the armistice has never been replaced by a peace treaty, leaving the peninsula technically still at war, and inter-Korean relations are now in a deep freeze with nuclear negotiations between Pyongyang and Washington at a deadlock.
At the western end of the DMZ, barbed wire fences surround the border island of Gyodong, less than 5km from North Korea.
Barber Ji Gwang-sik was 13 when he fled Yonpek, his North Korean hometown, at the height of the conflict.
It took “less than 30 minutes” for his family to travel across on a wooden boat, Ji said, but for nearly 70 years he has been unable to return.
Now 82, he still waits for the day he can return.
“Only those who had the same experience understand the pain,” he said.
China’s military yesterday showed off its machine-gun equipped robot battle “dogs” at the start of its biggest ever drills with Cambodian forces. More than 2,000 troops, including 760 Chinese military personnel, are taking part in the drills at a remote training center in central Kampong Chhnang Province and at sea off Preah Sihanouk Province. The 15-day exercise, dubbed Golden Dragon, also involves 14 warships — three from China — two helicopters and 69 armored vehicles and tanks, and includes live-fire, anti-terrorism and humanitarian rescue drills. The hardware on show included the so-called “robodogs” — remote-controlled four-legged robots with automatic rifles mounted on their
A Philippine boat convoy bearing supplies for Filipino fishers yesterday said that it was headed back to port, ditching plans to sail to a reef off the Southeast Asian country after one of their boats was “constantly shadowed” by a Chinese vessel. The Atin Ito (“This Is Ours”) coalition convoy on Wednesday set sail to distribute fuel and food to fishers and assert Philippine rights in the disputed South China Sea. “They will now proceed to the Subic fish port to mark the end of their successful mission,” the group said in a statement. A Philippine Coast Guard vessel escorting the convoy was
STREET WATCH: Residents watched over barricades blocking roads and flew white flags to show that they intended to keep an eye on their neighborhoods France yesterday deployed troops to New Caledonia’s ports and international airport, banned TikTok and imposed a state of emergency after three nights of clashes that have left four dead and hundreds wounded. Pro-independence, largely indigenous protests against a French plan to impose new voting rules on its Pacific archipelago have spiraled into the deadliest violence since the 1980s, with a police officer among several killed by gunfire. On roads, the torched detritus amassed over four days of unrest was scattered amid fist-size hunks of rock and cement that appeared to have been flung during riots. Armored vehicles roved the city’s palm-lined boulevards, usually
The last piece of privately owned land in the strategic Svalbard archipelago in the arctic is up for grabs, a property likely to entice China, but which Norway does not intend to let go without a fight. The archipelago is located halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole, in an arctic region that has become a geopolitical and economic hotspot, as the ice melts and relations grow ever frostier between Russia and the West. For 300 million euros (US$326 million), interested parties can acquire the remote Sore Fagerfjord property in southwestern Svalbard. Measuring 60km2 — about the size of Manhattan — the