When one steps into the Shanghai Huamei Hantang Qipao Workshop on Boai Road in Taipei, what first meets the eye is not only the row of qipaos on racks and mannequins, but the close attention that workshop manager Lin Chin-te (林錦德) as well as his apprentices pay to their task.
The shop has been in business for more than 60 years, and to this day produces custom-made qipaos.
Lin said he began as an apprentice making suits when he was 13 years old, but he switched tracks a year later, learning how to make qipaos at a store called Huamei, when the dress became popular.
“It was the heyday of the qipao-making business,” Lin said. “One could see numerous qipao stores on the same street.”
At the age of 37, Lin left Huamei to start his own business, as he adhered to the Shanghai style, which boasted greater attention to detail and more exquisite needlework, as well as more fashionable styles.
Lin eventually took over the Huamei brand and store from his former employer, and changed its name.
Lin said he obsessed over details, jotting down the many measurements of each client — even the height of their shoulders — to get each qipao just right.
“If I found anything wrong during the weaving process, I would take it apart and redo it,” Lin said.
“Each piece of fabric and the pattern that goes with it are tied together,” Lin said, adding that making qipaos is a delicate and complex craft.
Lin puts his suit tailoring experience to good use, providing alterations — particularly of the sleeves — to offer the wearer a snugger fit.
Pointing to a flyer announcing an apprentice opening at the store, Lin said, with a laugh, that the days are gone when seasoned tailors would keep a few trade secrets to themselves for fear that an apprentice would take over the business.
“Traditional clothing is on the decline, and the qipao craft has especially seen better days,” Lin said.
Experienced tailors look forward to teaching apprentices everything they know to pass the skill to a new generation, he said, but added that making qipaos requires persistence and patience.
“Apprentices must start with the basics of sewing by hand, diligently practicing their craft, both for the added experience and the skill,” Lin said.
“There will always be a need for qipaos, but it is impossible to bring back their heyday,” Lin said.
The lack of apprentices and people with the proper skills is only causing the price of qipaos to increase, he said, adding that he is willing to take on apprentices as long as they are hardworking, teachable and willing to improve themselves.
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