Every weekend, fighters from around Afghanistan gather on a public field in the capital to pit their skills against each other in a sport that is a mix of judo and wrestling.
The informal gatherings attract big partisan crowds, with fans cheering for their favorites — usually someone from their home district — and jeering those they want to see lose.
“I have been fighting for 17 years,” said Mohammad Atef, a well-built 31-year-old from Samangan Province in northern Afghanistan, after disposing of his opponent with an expert throw. “It is popular in Samangan, Kunduz, Baghlan — and there are many famous wrestlers in Sheberghan, too.”
Photo: AFP
Judo and wresting are particularly popular in the north, with villages and districts producing local champions that they put forward for regional contests and even national glory.
The discipline that the Afghans exhibit on the dusty field is a mix of both, with referees to make sure an obscure set of rules is followed and to declare a winner.
Bouts are usually settled quickly — a fight rarely lasts longer than one or two minutes — with opponents giving each other a sporting hug no matter the result.
“Today, my competitor was from Kunduz,” Atef said after disposing of his rival with an acrobatic throw. “I used a spiral technique and I finally defeated him.”
Matches are made by promoters who choose opponents based on a combination of weight and record.
There is a small purse for the winner and although gambling is officially banned by the Taliban, it is clear that side bets are made on the bouts — with money furtively changing hands between spectators after each fight.
Hekmat, a 21-year-old also from Samangan, is just starting his career and was beaming after his first victory of the weekend.
“It is about 10 years that I am wrestling ... from childhood,” he said. “I have just come to Kabul in recent months after I have wrestled in other provinces and districts.”
There was no sign of the Taliban in the crowd gathered in Kabul — those present said that the group eschews physical contests.
“We organize this ourselves,” one referee said. “This is not for the Taliban.”
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