Having served up classic Japanese teppanyaki banquets in Hong Kong for 35 years, Matsubishi Japanese Restaurant arrived in Taipei in November last year, titillating local diners with two of the main attractions of cuisine originating in Japan: premium beef and the fine maneuvers of chefs preparing the food in front of guests. A recent visit to the restaurant attests to its commitment to excellence in both.
Located three-minutes by foot from the Nanjing East Road MRT Station (南京東路捷運站), the two-story establishment stands out with an aura of sophistication and style beside the boisterous Hooters. A small, quiet front yard and outdoor seating sets the tone as patrons make their way into the restaurant, walk pass a glassy cellar sporting an extensive wine collection and up to the high-ceiling, delightfully spacious dining area on the second floor. The posh, U-shaped counter, which can accommodate 20 diners, is the rooms’ centerpiece, where the teppanyaki chefs, impeccably attired in black, show off their eye-dazzling skills on the iron griddle. There are also several box seats for those looking for privacy.
For first-time diners, the best way to savor the diverse products of Matsubishi’s kitchen/iron plate is through the set menus, designed for a slow, multiple-course feast which includes a few of the restaurant’s renowned delicacies such as eel and prawn.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
With high expectations, my dining companions and I began our dinner sets with the choices of steamed egg truffles or dobinmushi, a type of seafood broth served in a tea pot with mushroom, shrimp and other ingredients. While the dobinmushi offered no surprise, the steamed egg enchanted with the rich, fragrant flavors of truffle and caviar. For NT$200 extra, you are given a choice of sashimi.
Our next appetizer came with the choice of prawns, scallop or abalone. Simply seared, my scallops were the embodiment of oceanic exuberance. The prawns were equally sweet and crisp, and before they were served, we were treated to a culinary show as our chef prepared, cut, gutted and cooked the jumbo crustacean with precision and a sense of grace.
Then the restaurant’s signature eel arrived on the table. A remarkably simple, yet addictive dish, the skin of the eel was skillfully grilled to a crusty perfection, beautifully complementing the tender meat inside.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
As I was still marveling at the fish, my USDA prime sliced sirloin (NT$1,700 for a set) was presented. Reportedly Hong Kong pop star Sammi Cheng’s (鄭秀文) favorite food at Matsubishi, the beef rolls definitely lived up to their name. Cooked medium rare, the thin slices of buttery meat were wrapped with garlic crisps and finely chopped scallions, and together, they made a divine combo.
The USDA prime sirloin steak (NT$1,800 for a set) and USDA prime fillet steak (NT$2,000 for a set) charmed my dining partners, who found them melt-in-the-mouth delicious. Though three sauces accompany the meat, it is best advised not to use them, since the premium quality of the beef requires only simple seasoning to bring out the aroma.
The teppanyaki offerings at Matsubishi can also be ordered a la carte and include select ingredients such as Australian abalone, lobster and Hokkaido crab. The USDA Kobe sirloin steak (8oz) will set you back NT$2,480.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
Apart from the grilled delicacies, the restaurant also serves a wide selection of Japanese food ranging from hand rolls, sashimi and sushi to kaiseki, the traditional Japanese multi-course dinner. There are two kaiseki sets, costing NT$1,800 and NT$2,500 eacj.
Service is generally polite and efficient. On the day we visited, however, it seemed as though some service staff were undergoing training, their service often swinging between the slightly clumsy to the overly attentive.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
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