It’s not the most authentic, nor is it ultra-chic, but A-gan Thai Theme restaurant serves up a reliable and satisfying family-style meal. Located near Wanfang Hospital (萬芳醫院), with a branch in Gongguan (公館), A-gan is one of a number of “Yunnan and Thai cuisine restaurants” (雲泰料理) that have sprouted up across the city in recent years.
A-gan calls itself a “NT$98 restaurant” (98料理), but in truth, only a dozen out of the 100 or so items on the menu actually cost that much. Most of the dishes at that price are stir-fried greens, which include standards like kongxincai with shrimp paste sauce (蝦醬空心菜).
Expect to pay between NT$120 to NT$200 for main courses like Thai-style curried shrimp (泰式咖哩草蝦, NT$180) or dapao zhurou (打拋豬肉, NT$120), which is ground pork stir-fried with basil, garlic, onion, lemongrass and slivers of chili. I love the beef version, dapao niurou (打拋牛肉, NT$150), which has a zesty flavor thanks to the lemongrass.
Photo: David Chen, Taipei Times
Another popular item is the steamed lemon fish (清蒸檸檬魚, NT$160). Its simple sauce makes this dish a winner: freshly squeezed lemon juice, a little broth and a generous amount of chopped garlic. Accompanied by two or three other dishes, the portions are just right for three or four people. Get a larger order for NT$320 if there’s more in your party.
A-gan’s pad Thai (泰式炒河粉, NT$110) can’t compare with what you can get at Thai Guo Xiao Guan (泰國小館) in Gongguan, one of the better places in the city for Thai food (see the Sept. 17, 2004, edition of the Taipei Times for a review), but it will do in a pinch. The pad Thai is a decent choice for a quick lunch or if you’re dining alone. The pineapple fried rice (鳳梨炒飯, NT$130) isn’t bad, either, though a tad too greasy.
The decor at A-gan wouldn’t stand out on Zhongxiao East Road (忠孝東路), but it’s relatively fancy for this part of town, located on a street full of budget restaurants and noodle shops that serve mostly students and hospital employees. The walls are painted in bold colors (mostly bright green and some orange) and the space is clean and comfy, with plush vinyl chairs and round tables for large parties. Diners will spot the restaurant’s Thai theme in the traditional metal drinking cups and rice pots.
Photo: David Chen, Taipei Times
A few other items worth mentioning include the green papaya salad (泰式涼拌木瓜, NT$98), which A-gan does very well, and jiaomaji (椒麻雞, NT$130), or crispy fried chicken served on a bed of raw cabbage and topped with cilantro, minced chili and a garlic and lemon vinaigrette.
Those sensitive to spicy foods will find A-gan accommodating. The top of restaurant’s order form has checkboxes for “very spicy” (大辣), “medium spicy” (中辣), a “little spicy” (小辣) or “not spicy” (不加辣). All menu items are available in larger portions for between NT$80 to NT$150 extra.
A-gan offers a decent deal for large groups, and the restaurant has plenty of space. The branch near Wanfang Hospital takes up two floors and seats around 80. The Taipei Times has yet to visit the Gongguan branch, but the restaurant informed us that it has 150 seats.
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