Ticino prides itself on being an "authentic Swiss restaurant," and rightfully so, given the quaint Swiss decor found throughout this delightful eatery and its extensive menu of alpine delicacies.
Ticino has adhered steadfastly to its motto of providing genuine Swiss cuisine, unaltered for the sake of local taste buds, which often find cheese overpowering. So, with fondue being perhaps Switzerland's most famous dish, this specialty can sometimes prove a hard sell for the uninitiated, says manager Charles Ponsford. Those familiar with fondue, to whom this restaurant clearly caters, will immediately recognize the delicately combined flavors of white wine and melted Gruyere cheese over cubes of homemade bread. Another popular cheese fondue option is prepared with beer instead of wine, while the cheese-based Swiss specialty raclette is served as both an appetizer (NT$250) and a main dish (NT$380).
In a class all by itself is the fondue Bourguignonne (NT$750), which comes with hearty portions of US prime beef, chicken, prawns, french fries and mushrooms to deep fry in an oil broth. Top each fried chunk with a choice of six sauces, the most outstanding of which is the homemade Bearnaise sauce.
PHOTO: MAX WOODWORTH
Like Switzerland, Ticino provides a regional mix of German, French and Italian flavors. Eight different pasta dishes starting at NT$250 are the cheapest main dishes on the menu, while a classically Germanic element is provided in the smoked pork loin, bacon and sausage served on sauerkraut (NT$450). For meat lovers, Ponsford recommends the pan-fried veal escalope with sage and parma ham served on saffron rice (NT$650). To fully appreciate the house's celestial Bearnaise sauce, try the whole roasted beef filet (NT$700, for two).
Though most of its dishes can hardly be described as light fare, the menu also provides a number of lighter seafood dishes and substantial appetizers. Highly recommended are the pan-fried salmon steak with saffron rice (NT$550) and the sole meuniere (NT$750). The Swiss barley soup (NT$130) comes loaded with diced carrots and celery in a delicious chicken stock.
One of the highlights of any meal at Ticino is the excuse to indulge in a chocolate fondue for dessert. Dip a variety of freshly sliced fruit into rich melted chocolate and wash the whole down with sweet cherry liqueur. The taste is so authentically Swiss, one almost expects to peer out the window and see grazing cows and sprouting edelweiss.
Address: 2, Ln. 82, Tienmou E. Rd., Taipei (台北市天母東路82巷2號)
Telephone: (02) 2876-1101
Open: 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 9:30pm
Average meal: NT$600
Details: English menu. Credit cards accepted.
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